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Thanks Mike, would love to see it working. Any videos?

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Ken

No videos of the Super Pid? I can make one though if you want?

mike

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I'm outside looking in, just farther from the window than most.

When you have it running, shoot a video. Thanks!

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Ken

I am in the beginning stage of building the platform router.


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Ken

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Ken

The big orange beast


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Ken

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Ken

Mdf spoil board
She is now jogging without limit switches.


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Ken

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Ken

My router holder came today but was the wrong size. Another day won't kill me.


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Ken

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Ken

I just née to finish up the pid wiring and limit switches.


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Ken

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Ken

Looking good. Do I see two drive motors/screws on the long axis ? How sturdy is it ?

Yes two drives on the long axis. It seems very sturdy right now but I have not used it yet. I will let you know in a couple days.


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Ken

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Ken

Mach 3 is controlling the machine, and I have a super PID running the router. But Mach 3 won't turn on the router. I am pretty sure all is set correctly in the software. Any idea welcomed.


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Ken

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Ken

Are you using a G540?

I don't have a SuperPID but I know that getting the G540 wired into a regular VFD is a little tricky. Call up the SuperPID guys, I'm sure they'll be able to set you straight.



Obviously, Mach 3 has to be configured properly too. Make sure your ports and pins settings are correct.

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http://www.birkonium.com CNC Products for Luthiers
http://banduramaker.blogspot.com

Hey thanks Andy, I got it working... here was the problem. These computer things are picky little buggers. The computer was not grounded correctly so it was sending out 5 volts to the "run" input until I changed to a properly grounded outlet from across the room via extension cord. Then it was sending out 5 volts before I toggled the spindle (router) in mach3 and the voltage went down to 0 and switched on the router like it should when I hit spindle.

Now I have a bigger problem. I don't know how to use this machine!!! Want to come over Andy???

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Ken

Too funny, I had the same problem with my VFD - when I had a USB cable plugged in between the VFD and computer it worked because it was providing the VFD with a GND reference. As soon as I un-plugged the USB it stopped working. Adding a good ground between the G540 and the VFD fixed it.

Sure, I'll come over. What's for dinner?

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http://www.birkonium.com CNC Products for Luthiers
http://banduramaker.blogspot.com

Now too weird I button-down the router. Screwed it together and the PID wouldn't work. I was worried about stability so I just wired straight router.
Well I calibrated the motors anyway. So progress has been made.


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Ken

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Ken

OK one weekend playing with the machine and getting things set up as best as I can understand.

Question for Andy and others.
I have the MadCam downloaded as a trial. I want to make some molds and jigs like you made for me. Starting with 3/4 mdf. first thing is a mold for my sides. It is very simple and unfortunately MadCam is very complex. What program can create g code? I have 3D models of all the parts.
[img][img][/img][/img]

I use 3/4 mdf and stack them to make the thickness.

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Ken

Hi Ken - long time! That shape looks familiar!

I find most CAM programs too complex, too. I used LazyCAM for a while. Very simple but unpredictable. I have been using CamBam lately and like it. And at $180 it doesn't break the bank.

Hi Jamie, good to see you around here.
You plate in your ave looks interesting.

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Ken

Ya, metal detectors love me now!

Titanium?

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Ken

I think your screenshots are showing a ramp(ed) fixture like you would like to use for cutting the neck joint ? The sides look like they would be perpendicular to the mold block if it were laying flat on the table ? If so you could use a profile operation to cut that profile into the mdf block laying flat on the table.

Rand, thanks for the comment. My rib mold is actually made from 6 layers of 3/4 inch plywood, stacked up to make the 4 1/4 inch mold. . There are three parts to the mold, the top which is convex guitarshaped, the bottom which is concave and the cutaway insert. The gap is exact dimension for the rib, plus a silicone blanket, plus some aluminum flashing. The layup gets loaded onto the bottom concave part, and of course is laying flat across it, then the top part is set on it and a screw press is crewed down from above to press the layup to shape. The cutaway area is still flat and the insert is pushed into place and clamped. The silicone blanket is turned on and the UF glue sets. The screw is lifted and the top is removed and the part is ready to trim and cut to width and used in another mold that is shown at the top of this thread. The body is assembled and then it is ready to have the neck pocket routed.

So basically the shape could be routed from sheets of plywood nested.

Turmite actually helped me tremendously just a few hours ago.

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Ken

Good, I expected he'd show when you mentioned MadCAM being overly complex. MadCAM isn't overly complex unless you're starting from dead zero: two minutes of explanation of the buttons turns it from a mystery into more or less an open book. MasterCAM, the industry leader, is another such program where sitting down at it you could spend hours figuring out what to do but a five minute tutorial turns it into a fast and easy program.

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Bob Garrish
Former Canonized Purveyor of Fine CNC Luthier Services

Yes, and a screw and a piece of bone from a dead guy.

http://youtu.be/mRBd6AqZivU

A little progress. not much but a real jig part.
Still learning about how to create toolpaths, this is probably all wrong, the feed rate is obviously too slow.

I am having a bit of trouble with creating toolpaths in Rhino and Madcam. I am getting to the point of almost knowing what I have done wrong. He he.

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Ken