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Anyone have tips or pointers to tips on fettling a spokeshave? I tried to
apply what I know about planes with moderate success. I found an old
spokeshave rusting in my dad's tool chest and took it home, sharpened
the iron and flattened the sole.

One thing I haven't figured out is if the iron should go bevel up or bevel
down. Bevel down doesn't seem to work real well, but the iron my have
too shallow a bevel ground in it. Bevel up seems to leave an awfully large
throat clearance, but maybe that's normal for a spokeshave.

I need to find my Hack book and see if he talks about spokeshaves at all.

In the meantime, any advice from you guys would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Jay

Pics? That might help.

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Here are some pics of the tool. In the second pic, you see the bottom of
the spokeshave with the iron installed bevel up (away from the wood).
I've decided it has to be that way, because when I install the iron bevel
down, the bevel is co-planar with the sole and leaves essentially no throat
opening, making it an altogether impracticle situation. The only solution
I can think of is that if it *should* be bevel down, the bevel angle has to
be ground much more acutely.







ecklesweb38753.8817361111

Bevel up is the way mine go. Just won't work the other way.

Hmmm, I have one of these. Or a similar tool. Mine is a scraper I believe though. Yep, different animal. I know nothing, to quote Schulz.Bruce Dickey38753.9124768519

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I just put the bevel up and tried it out with that big-ole throat opening.
Turns out it roughed out the curve of a neck in a big dang hurry.
Produces pretty small chips, not curlies like I guess I expected it to.

In any case, it worked pretty well for what I needed.

Jay

if you want this or any cutting type wood removal tool, whether chisel, plane, spokeshave, etc., to work well you need to lap and polish the back of the blade as well as the beveled edge. otherwise your cutting edge is only half done.crazymanmichael38754.3429513889

[QUOTE=crazymanmichael] if you want this or any cutting type wood
removal tool, whether chisel, plane, spokeshave, etc., to work well you
need to lap and polish the back of the blade as well as the beveled edge.
otherwise your cutting edge is only half done.[/QUOTE]

The back actually is lapped (at least the 1/4" towards the cutting edge.
The polish on the blade caught a weird reflection in the photo that makes
it look like I haven't even touched it.

Thank you, though, for the tip.

Jay

You can probably add some shim material behind the blade to close up the throat and refine the cut. Even a piece of veneer glued to the blade will do and can add smoothness to the cut-kind of like an infill plane.By the way, if you are thinking about a new shave, consider the Lee Valley low angle-sole is reversible for flat or curved-will detail the heel nicely. It is really smooth as it cuts.Best regards,

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