Official Luthiers Forum!

Hello everyone, lucky to have found this forum. I´m from Portugal started building about a year ago. So far only finished one. A very short scale bass (25'), anda now going for may second build anda a complete cheap stratocaster makeover.

Ok so the question, i´ve been playing on scraap woods (beech and oak) and i tried two aproches dry and wet wood. I allways end up evem after sanding with black spots at the end grain. so if doing a full body and not just the top i will end with the sides being very awckawerd looking, almost loking as if painted on some spots and stained on others.
Is there any method, trick anything to avoid this??

Thank for any help

PS does anyone knows the body size for a 3/4 acoustic guitar? planning on making one for my daughter till xmas.

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The sharpest the tool, the fastest it will find its way to my hands :p
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Doug

Don't let fear or common sense stop you from trying to build something

Your test panels should be the same species as your body. Endgrain will always take stain darker than face grain. Wood conditioner may help, but applying it to only the endgrain will be almost impossible and if applied to the entire surface may lead to the same type difference in color with the overall tone being lighter and more even.

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Brian

You never know what you are capable of until you actually try.

https://www.howardguitarsdelaware.com/

Thank just did may first sunburst findh with dies today. Didn't came out as perfect as i wanted but still looking good. As for the sides i will die them tomorrow until i get a even color or at least as close as possible all aroun.

Thank you also for the chart will be of use.

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The sharpest the tool, the fastest it will find its way to my hands :p
https://www.facebook.com/capricornbasses?fref=ts

I've used transtint on bare wood as well as tinting clear lacquer.
Figured Maple really pops with dye on bare wood, not as much with tinted lacquer.
My experience tinting lacquer with transtint is that the color can quickly change and fade with exposure to indirect sunlight.
I have not had the fading problem with dye on bare wood.
Just my experience for what it's worth.

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wah
Wah-wah-wah-wah
Wah

I've had luck using RIT Dye on Maple and Poplar. End grain, like mentioned above, will take more stain initially, hence the darkness, but you could always darken the back with more stain to match the edges at least.

No luck on the sides, After a lot of thinkering i,m going to paint the sides with black no gloss paint. After varnishing i think it will be at least nicer than now.

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The sharpest the tool, the fastest it will find its way to my hands :p
https://www.facebook.com/capricornbasses?fref=ts