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the next step i presume would be to fit the neck into the dovetail. i am not sure how to do this. i am thinking i would take the neck joint down to fit the dovetail and not the otherway around but if thats the case, how do i do this in a precise manner? also, where do i get a measurement from to see what action i will be getting. i am looking for relatively low action on this classical guitar. sorry if this is confusing, i am confused myself.

Fitting a dovetail is like flying an airplane.... blindfolded.

You have up and down, right and left, and then there is the wind correction angle... oh and the blindfold. You can't see in that joint.

You simply work down the male portion of the neck, cheeks and heel, until it aligns and fits. Carbon-paper glued to a sheet of paper and cut into strips makes a good transfer of contact. Kind of like when the dentist says, "Now bite down, grind slightly." The carbon deposit shows what is making contact and may need grinding slightly.

Using carbon transfer will clue you into what the joint is doing. Yes, and you may have to add shims to the angle if you blow it. It takes practice. You can do it. When you do, come back and tell us all so we can clap for you!   

You will find some of your favorite tools may be a sharp chisel, carbon paper, and a dremel with a burr for wood removal. I relieve the inner portions of a mating surface and deal only with the outer 1/8th inch or so of the joint. The glue joint, I keep full contact.

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I highly recommend the Stew-Mac guitar building video. It does a great job of showing how to fit a dovetail.

Kama Bruce is dead on on how to proceed. most of us have switched to M&T bolt-on because it is much quicker to fit up and it has proved to be just as strong. And there is the the inevitable neck re-set issue. It may be 15-50 years down the road it will need re-set at some time in its 100 + year life. (baring bar room rukus)

thanks guys this is really helpful, i will probably also purchase the stewmac video as it really helps me to visualize what you are saying.

i just went onto stew macs website, can you guys tell me which video i should get, they have a bunch.

StewMac #1250 and or #5197

Kama, as I was passing by I noticed an odd realization.
Were you doing a classical guitar with a dovetai? Or was this a classic dovetail joint question? What are you building by the way?

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Or you could be like me and use a dovetail and a bolt instead of glue.

Why not use a dovetail on a classical? I plan on starting my first classical in a few weeks and am going to use a dovetail joint. I learned to build steel strings from Sergei de Jonge and he uses the dovetail and bolt on classical and steel. I figure if it is good enough for de Jonge it is good enough for me.

Why not? Any thoughts?

JoshJosh H38758.9082291667

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Josh House

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Josh, yeah that works, anything works.

I was wondering about threading the neck with a die and cutting the guitar body with a tap and just screwing the neck on like a toilet plunger. Still working on the details.

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[QUOTE=Bruce Dickey] I was wondering about threading the neck with a die and cutting the guitar body with a tap and just screwing the neck on like a toilet plunger. Still working on the details. [/QUOTE]

Bruce, great idea, but you know that some "repairman" would come along and epoxy it! By the way, would you recommend a 1" or 3/4" thread?

Kama I am unsure you saw this on your other topic related to dovetail adjustment, so I will post again.

GO to StewMac's site under Kits, then pick the dreadnaught kit. From that page pick the instructions tab and download the instructions in pdf or view them on line. page 23-26 is good explination.

MichaelP38759.5908449074

bruce, im building a classical guitar with a dovetail joint. its a koa back and sides with spruce top. i bought the kit from john @ blue creek, and he suggested the dovetail.

michael, thanks for the stew mac link. i just finished reading it and you are right, it is a very good explaination. it'll be very helpful. ill let you all know how it goes. ill keep my fingers crossed and hopefully not my eyes.

Aha! Just as I thought. It is a departure from the norm. But being a dovetailer myself, I've considered that should I build a classical. Why not, after all, it is a proven joint, plus I'm set up for it already.

I see having a tailblock already cut a great help getting it ready for the rough-in. Are you using a precut Martin style neckblock? I had one on my first and it worked great.

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bruce, do you glue the fretboard on before you start fitting the neck in the dovetail?

I fit the neck Rough, without the fretboard. So it's 95 percent done at that point, aligned, angled etc. Then I glue on the fretboard.

After the finish is applied there is a little fitting yet to do, but mainly related to the changes caused by the addition of finish. Doesn't take long to final fit then glueup using hide glue in the mating surfaces of the dovetail. Titebond between the top and fretboard.

What you have to remember when learning the joint, is that it gets easier with practice. You can zero in and nail it, over time.

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