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PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2006 8:01 am 
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Cocobolo
Cocobolo

Joined: Thu Sep 01, 2005 2:51 am
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Location: Canada
I have decided I want to try out West System epoxy for my current build and have been looking through the archives for info.

It seems that some people like to sand the epoxy back to bare wood and just leave the epoxy in the pores. Others leave a thin coat of epoxy on the wood.


I'd like to hear from people who do it either way and why they like that option. I'm expecting to hear answers such as "it looks better this way" or "That's the way 'Bob the expert' does it so I do it that way also."

I have read that the epoxy really makes the wood grain stick out. Do you agree with that?

Thanks!!   


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2006 8:52 am 
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Contributing Member
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Joined: Mon Dec 27, 2004 11:25 pm
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Location: United States
Graham,
It all depends on what you're using for a finish.
In the case of something like KTM-9, you'll want to apply a water-thin wash coat on after you've sanded back and have everything completely level.
This realy pops the grain of the wood, which won't happen with straigh KTM-9.
If you're shooting lacquer, then vinyl sealer will pop the grain, so no need for the wash coat.
This is of course, just my opinion, but it works well for me.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2006 9:27 am 
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Cocobolo
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Location: Canada
Don,

I will be using KTM-9. So I'll try what you suggest.

Hesh,

Yes after posting I came across a link to the Doolin KTM page and read the same thing.

Thanks guys,


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2006 9:29 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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"That's the way 'Bob the expert' does it so I do it that way also."


Ron

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2006 9:34 am 
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Cocobolo
Cocobolo

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Location: Canada
Which way do you do it then Ron?


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2006 9:52 am 
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Joined: Tue Jan 03, 2006 1:47 pm
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First name: Larry
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Graham, The problem with sanding back to bare wood in areas is you run the risk of getting different 'wetting' and color differences. And as mentioned any water base will not 'wet' as well as oil base and the difference can be huge and really ugly. Epoxy is NOT easy to work with IMHO but really pops the rgain as other have said.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2006 9:55 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Sorry, Graham, cheap shot.   I haven't done it. My first guitar is cherry, which doesn't require filling, and I used tru-oil on the neck, no filler there either. Smooth as a baby's posterior.

Ron

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2006 10:51 am 
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Cocobolo
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swish!

That's the sound of your joke flying over my head.   


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2006 1:32 pm 
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Koa
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I use thinned west system which I put on and then rub in and wipe off just as it starts to set up. Then I sand it back to bare wood leaving just the pores filled, no problem with "different wetting and colour differences as only the pores are filled. Very little sanding needed this way. One time I put it on thicker and tried to just level everything leaving just a thin layer. For me that diddent work, by the time I was happy I was going through the epoxy in spots and ended up sanding it all back.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2006 2:26 pm 
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Koa
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State: ON
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I have switched to sanding it back to the wood. I did a few where I left a very thin coat to "wet" the wood. It was fine until I buffed through the finish (KTM). If you buff through there is not a good way to touch it up. I ended up striping the top and refinishing.

So I now sand back to the wood and have switched to nitro.

Josh

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