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I need urgent help with information of the technical specifications of frets 12th through 16th of Epiphone DR100 NA, Made in China, 2 or 3 year old.

I need to refret frets 12th through 16th only or mainly. I would be happy to match the material which appears to be Brass or Brass in colour. Other materials, not a big problem.

I have measured the maximal width of the crown to be around 2mm ( AliExpress sells standard Chinese size closest to 2mm to be 2.1mm ) and the height from the fretboard up to be around 1.5mm. The maximal length of a fret is 5.8cm. I was told the angle is 14 degrees, please, confirm or deny.

These are measured values with a simple caliper which are not very exact, so, please, advise what best information you have. I am concerned with the angle as the standard angle for acoustic is 12 degrees but a luthier from one of the top shops arouns says the angle of this Epiphone DR100 is 14 degrees.

See attachment and, please, reply.

Hi Steven, and welcome to the forum.

I am guessing English is not your first language, and am not entirely clear on the question, what you are trying to do, or what the problem with your guitar is exactly. It sounds like you want to replace frets 12 through 16, but am not clear on why.

It sounds like you probably have not done much work on guitars before, and fear you may be trying to do work which could be unnecessary, and much, much more complicated than you expect.

If you could describe the problem as to why you want to replace these frets (if this was in the attachment, I didn't see it show up), we may be able to help more. Or you may want to take it in to a shop to have it looked at - Ian Weston is up in Ottowa, and does great work.

The DR-100 is a very cheap guitar of course, and often can take much more work than is worth doing to make them playable at all.

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Eschew obfuscation, espouse elucidation.

I have a question...
WHY do you think you need to replace these frets?
What problem prompted your "mission" to replace said frets?
ALSO - what attachment do you want us to see?

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"Act your age, not your shoe size" - Prince

I have very clearly explained what I need. Why is not the question and not related to. I have clearly provided all the information on the frets obtained after measurement. I have clearly requested the REAL information which is obtained from the source and from the source only and this is Epiphone. ALL I ASKED IS THE TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS OF 12TH THROUGH 16TH FRET OF EPIPHONE DR100 NA, MADE IN CHINA, 2 TO 3 YEAR OLD AND NOTHING ELSE.

Changing frets is easy and I can easily do so even with eyes closed as well as everyone else.

Please, either provide the official Epiphone information obtained from the company in case you have so or provide any ideas, mainly with the curvature angle or, please, refrain from stupid comments.

The attachment was uploaded but the web site did not show the attachment for some reason which may or may not be known to the people who have created the software.

Although not necessary, I have also purchased fret extractors which can be replaced by simple $1 pliers or nippers or wire cutters, a fret rocker which can be replaced by 4 pieces of cut plastic ruler for less than $1 and, believe this or not, even a fret hammer which can be replaced by a mallet or a simple hammer and a piece of wood or plastic or strong, heavy rubber stick.

Again, I asked for simple information and not for useless opinions on how specialised the Luthier labour is and how rocket scientists are necessary to do simple things which children at school can do better in fourth grade.

I had this problem before, so, please, try to understand Luthier is nothing but a simple wood worker and there is no difference between these two. So, instead of barking how great you are with even the children laughing at you and instead of brainwashing stupid people who believe you or make themselves believe you, please, either give the official company information in case you can or do not write anything because I do not want to waste another second on this forum for useless comments. In case you do not provide the information, no problems : I will get this from professional forums or companies or shops or anyone else.

And NO, there isn't such a " capable " Luthier neither around not anywhere in the world because to say someone is a capable Luthier is the same as to say someone is a capable wood cutter. So, no money to anyone and the price of the change of frets is the price of the frets which is <= $1 per fret and the tools can be used for multiple use and or landing to friends or repairing guitars of friends who do not want to get their hands dirty and this is the only reason for not wanting to do the job themselves.

Did you now understand the specialised English?

Yes, I understand completely that you are a TROLL, and unworthy of my help.

_________________
"Act your age, not your shoe size" - Prince

If as you say luthiers are just simple wood workers and you can change out frets with your eyes closed, then making your own fret wire should be child's play. Why not simply fabricate your own fret wire out of scrap metal to match the other frets?

Edited

_________________
"It is easier to fool a man, than it is to convince him that he has been fooled"
Mark Twain

Steven, please bless us with some of your work.
Hopefully it will inspire some of us to "go out and cut wood"

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Say what you do, Do what you say.

Let's take a step back please. I was genuinely trying to be helpful.

There are multiple reasons I did not give you "manufacturer specs".

1 - There are none publicly provided for this instrument. It is a cheap borderline toy guitar, which is made in several different spec shops in different countries, ordered from China or Korea or Indonesia depending on the exchange rate that week. So there are no official consistent specs to give you, because they can change arbitrarily without any care on a cheap instrument like this.

2 - Height doesn't really matter, as any time you replace a few frets they have to be leveled to match the surrounding frets anyway - the process of replacement negates the spec you inquire about. It's like asking how long a line of shingles should be on a particular shed from Home Depot - it doesn't matter to ask, because you cut them to length as you lay them on anyway.

3 - The questions you asked, and the work it sounds as though you are planning to do, suggest a good chance you may be embarking on a completely unnecessary task, chasing the wrong solution for a problem that doesn't involve having to replace these frets at all.

From perspective of people here, whose priority is simply to be helpful, there were a number of red flags raised in your original post which suggested that if you provided more info about the problems you were experiencing, we may be able to suggest a much simpler approach to solving them which did not involve having to replace these frets (which is a much more complicated job to do well than you seem to believe it will be).

Maybe you were just getting a lot of buzz, or only one note from frets 12-16, in which case the problem is more likely that you are in Ottawa in winter and the guitar needs to be rehumidified, or any number of other issues we could help address if we knew more about what the problem was.

From our perspective, it feels like being a car mechanic with someone someone saying they just want to know what size wrench they need to pull the engine from the transmission. If they knew what they were doing they would never have to ask this, and we have a hunch that they may just need new spark plug wires anyway.

So here's the deal. This forum is not an "Ask Jeeves" search engine for guitar parts, it's a community of experts and enthusiasts of similar interests. So let's clear the table and try again.

What kind of problems is your guitar exhibiting? If we have some more details, those with expertise and experience in this field may be able to help suggest other solutions short of replacing these frets. Or if the frets do need replacement, then perhaps we could provide you with an easy source for frets of suitable size and material. We would just like a bit more info about the work in question to be able to help you better.

_________________
Eschew obfuscation, espouse elucidation.

I think it would be best to call the Epiphone factory for these answers. I am sure they have experts that can answer these questions. Here is how to contact them
http://www.epiphone.com/Home/Talk-2-Us.aspx
Good luck.

Dang it, that post turned me to Cocobolo, a wood that I truly love, but I wish the post had been about some really meaty problem or a cool discovery, and not how to reach Epiphone Tech Support. Oh well, hope it helps.

GS

(first post woohoo!)

I just signed up for this forum, been reading mostly.

Regarding the problem with the guitar, not telling anyone the problem and just asking an oddly specific question really doesn't help you much. If the guitar is buzzing, it might be something else. Also you're not going to get people to help you much if you insult their profession.

Also, on a random note, is this your website?

http://www.steven-stanley-bayes.com/Gallery.html

Is this the guitar in question you are having trouble with? Looks like the same model to me

I think the OP has disappeared into the ozone.... Just like that guys's ^^^ talent.

_________________
"Act your age, not your shoe size" - Prince

It is a simple problem, really. That instrument was not designed to rock that hard. Non-stop soloing, GWAR style, will wear out the upper frets. One must have the appropriate tools if one is to bring the rock. It would be best to swap guitars with a cowboy, because they only use the first 3 frets. Frets 12-16 will be like new. I do not rock at all now, but when I did, I would put extra batteries in my stomp box an nearly dead ones in my Pignose, to make it fizzy.

From what I see/hear in the video (appears to be the guitar in question, recently posted), I would say it demonstrates textbook symptoms of a dry guitar.

Top sunk bringing the bridge/saddle too low, neck in too much relief, excessive buzzing from the middle frets up through the body joint area - that's exactly what one gets when a guitar in winter in Ottawa is left unhumidified. It's also the reason I wanted more details before I may have helped facilitate completely unnecessary work.

It could (probably, almost certainly) also need a fret dress, followed by a proper setup, but I see no reason to believe replacing any of the upper frets should be considered.

The again, what help could I possibly offer that your average wood cutter wouldn't already know?

_________________
Eschew obfuscation, espouse elucidation.

My hunch is that this is indeed a dry guitar and the buzzing and fretting out was wrongly diagnosed.... and someone.... started messing with the body joint frets or even "pulled" them.... Now they need new frets... Who knows but I sure wish that I could play like this guy....

I got a notice that this thread could be turning south (thanks), I see the OP was quite firm with his questions and responses,
but it appears that the be nice rule has prevailed. Which since we are all mostly "nice" seems like a pretty easy thing to do.

Thanks everyone!

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Nobody asked the OP if there was a bee in the room.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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"It is easier to fool a man, than it is to convince him that he has been fooled"
Mark Twain