Hi Dennis, Feel free to copy the design, and if you can think of improvements to it let me know. I use common hardware store items ( T nuts, cap head screws, flat head machine screws screwed into a tapped strap button) that are easily procured and replaced if lost. The fretboard sections can be leveled separately - the frets over the neck, and the frets over the body. This assumes the frets are reasonably fitted initially and a little fall away is desired and can be accomplished with fret dressing. I cut the fretboard in the space just past the fret that joins the body. I cut it at an angle so it slips under the fretboard glued on the body. This eliminates any fretboard overhanging the neck, which might be liable to being damaged because of that. For the "end port" I use an oval shape and carefully cut out the wood from the glued up sides and use that to cover the plug. By using an end wedge the oval offcuts can be moved out to fill the gap created by the saw kerf and the grain of the plug will match the sides. The flat head machine screw is fitted to a tapped strap button with is used to secure the plug in place. I drill a hole in the "clamping stick" and friction fit the allen wrench for the neck's cap head screw into it. The bridge uses a recess and slots to hold the strings but still allows them to slip out the back (I use a bag clamp with slots cut in it to keep the strings from tangling. The nut is capped to hold the strings in place. This is how I presently build these travel guitars, but I am always open to improvements. It makes a compact traveling unit without compromising it's utility as a guitar. When not in travel mode it can be left assembled and used as any other guitar. I have built them from dreadnought size to parlor size.
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