Official Luthiers Forum!

Any favorite satin open pore finishes out there? Favorite oils and such?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

SATIN .... sorry I messed up the title I don’t know how to adjust it ha


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sarin finishes get on my last nerve...just saying.

_________________
For the times they are a changin'

- Bob Dylan

better than Satan ones


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Guess the correct term is semi-gloss:)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m just looking for something I can do well at home. ... it’s so hard , yes I know not impossible, to get a high grade gloss w ALLLLL pores filled and NO contaminants :/
I’d like to do something cleaner and thinner.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Have you tried shellac? I always struggle to get all pores fully filled with pumice, but I actually prefer the semi-filled look on most woods (curly mahogany is one exception where I prefer fully filled). Fully open is usually pretty ugly with sharply defined holes in a shiny surface, but a little bit of texture breaks up the reflection and looks more natural. After filling I scrape off any residual pumice slurry (this is a pain because pumice dulls the scraper very quickly, but it's still faster than sanding), wipe on shellac, let it sit overnight, sand with micromesh rust/green/black, and wipe on dilute shellac which will fill the remaining scratches and produce a slightly streaky gloss. Not quite as good as a proper French polish, but easier.

Necks are often good fully open, especially if you orient the grain so there's near-zero runout along the back of the neck. But usually I sand it and then slop shellac on without clearing the dust out of the pores to get a partial fill. Then fine sand (400 or 600 grit), clear the dust, and wipe on dilute shellac. My thumb sticks to gloss necks like a gecko, and satin has an icky scritchy feel when sliding along it. This is a good middle ground.

You can modify the title by going back and editing it in your original post.

_________________
Steve Smith
"Music is what feelings sound like"

This guitar-body octave mandolin was my first go with Ecopoxy. It was really quick and easy. The neck feels great, very fast and silky. https://www.ecopoxy.com/resin-and-hardener/ It’s a bit spendy. I think it was $115CA which is about $85US. I think the 1liter kit will easily do 3-4 instruments.

Cheers

So in your experience did it simply flow into pores better?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Each coat is applied with a clean, lint-free cloth, wiping as much of the finish/epoxy back off as possible. When the finish goes on too thick and cures, it’s a real bugger getting it leveled back out with out having to sand. A quick scuff between coats with 0000 steel wool. Rinse and repeat 4 or so times. Rub out with 0000 at the very end, and poof. Let cure for a minimum of 5hrs between passes.

It would probably be better to use the clear or UVPoxy rather than the one you linked. I use that one for composites (which it is excellent for), and it turns very yellow after a year or so. I haven't actually tried the others though, so hopefully they have the same viscosity (much more fluid than most epoxies. Very nice to work with, and no bubbles).

This was the exact product recommended to me by Dion Guitars. It went on exactly as advertised. It is described in some of the literature I’ve read to also be an excellent finish.

Fair enough. Maybe it's not opaque enough for the yellow color to be noticeable against the warm colors of wood as opposed to fiberglass.

For a satin finish Tru Oil works well and couldn't be easier - but it takes a while. Hand apply and then wipe off. Wait half a day and then do it again. Light sand with 400-600 grit every few coats. You need to do a lot of (thin) coats. More than a dozen, and then you will be getting there. Once you have built up enough layers you can smooth it out with 0000 steel wool and then wax and buff. There are plenty of YouTube videos to guide you.

I use Waterlox original on my necks. It builds faster than other oils, is fairly tough (holds up well) & is repairable.

They also make a gloss product that will rub out to a higher sheen but you have to start with the original.

Kevin Looker

_________________
I'm not a luthier.
I'm just a guy who builds guitars in his basement.
It's better than playing golf.

Man you are totally on the FBI watch list now

Tru-Oil is a fine open pore finish imho.

I have used Tru oils with great results, although was never 100% happy as in certain light on dark wood I could see faint draw lines, this could however be my technique, but I did 5 guitars like it and was happy.

Recently I thought I would try nitro spray can (satin) and researched reviews and found North West guitars, sprayed my last guitar with this and am totally chuffed with the results. I bought 1 can of sanding sealer and 2 cans of satin nitro, I only buy 2 cans incase I mess up (takes the pressure of me)

The difference between the 2 in my findings was

Tru oil - looks great but very delicate finish with possible streaking

Nitro satin- more professional looking finish which is very strong and can be sanded flat easier
(However you will need a garage to spray it because of the fumes)



Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

I’ve sworn off of nitro for now. I did a few early guitars with it... but the fumes are too much especially w my family at home. I don’t want to be exposed to the stuff and I certainly don’t want my kids exposed to it


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I spray nitro in a garage breeze way (basically outside) with a powerful fan blowing out while wearing an OSHA respirator mask. It's evil stuff for sure but can be done safely. I rarely use it myself anymore for those very reasons. But it still remains my favorite finish. Love/hate I guess.

I finish as normal, grain fill, etc. but instead of polishing I just sand to 600 and steel wool it. Makes a nice satin finish. Some customers request satin finish.

_________________
Cat-gut strings are made from kitten guts, stretched out to near breaking point and then hardened with grue saliva. As a result these give a feeling of Pain and anguish whenever played, and often end up playing themselves backwards as part of satanic rituals.

Typhoon Guitars
http://www.typhoon-guitars.com

Tai, how does grain filling, finishing as normal, then rubbing back with 600 grit and wire wool give you a satin open pore finish?

_________________
The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.

I think he just meant a non gloss finish. I get it . But yes I’m considering finishes that are open pore for this thread.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The problem is if you didn't grain fill the gloss should show through where the grain is, so you would actually have to use satin finish as the last coat if you wanted to leave the grains open.

_________________
Cat-gut strings are made from kitten guts, stretched out to near breaking point and then hardened with grue saliva. As a result these give a feeling of Pain and anguish whenever played, and often end up playing themselves backwards as part of satanic rituals.

Typhoon Guitars
http://www.typhoon-guitars.com

Right;) my original post is asking about this exact thing:) open pore non gloss;)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk