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Before I go off on my own, maybe there are good ideas out there to help me.

I recently had four vertebrae in my neck fused. As a result, my surgeon advised my to avoid looking down, such as I normally would on a workbench. If I do that too muck, I will damage the remaining discs and then need more surgery down the road.

It seems to me that I can raise the work surface from three feet to four feet and be fine for most things. Maybe also tilt the surface slightly towards me. Has anyone else gone through this and devised some nifty helpers?

One of the former students had similar issues, so the approach used here was to use a 3/4" plywood add-on bench-top box (sides open)...for an additional 12 inches of height, a box which is 12" tall x bench width wide and the desired work surface length long works, with a vertical center stiffener screwed in place halfway between the near side and far side of the box, and clamps or bench dogs to mount to the bench. A few holes in the center stiffener to make a hand grip makes moving the box on and off easier easy.

It is also an option to elevate your current bench with extension feet...we used 6" tall by foot-length blocks on a Harbor Freight bench to raise it to a comfortable height for detail work...Several pieces of 4x4 stock could be squared on the jointer, then sequentially screwed in place with 5" deck screws (first to the bench feet, then the next riser to the previous riser). Keep in mind that the taller the bench, the less stable, so making those risers a bit longer might help stabilize the bench for loads along the short axis of the top.

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For the times they are a changin'

- Bob Dylan

I've long thought it would be very cool to have a workbench like this one built on a barber chair mechanism by Swedish luthier Michael Sandén.

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Once in a while you get shown the light in the strangest of places if you look at it right - Robert Hunter

When I was building cabinets on a daily basis I had a box similar to what Woodie described. Placing it on the bench "raised" the bench. Placing it on the floor and standing on it "lowered" the bench. Make the box strong enough to hold your weight, but light enough to not require much effort to lift it.
Some people find second hand motorized drafting tables and add a second layer to the top.

I’ll be watching this as well. I have grade 3/4 Spondylolisthesis. I definitely have to watch what I do in the shop and for how long or else I come out looking like that old shuffling Tim Conway character on Carol Burnett.




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I make job orientated mini benches that clamp into my bench vises. That raises a work area about 10-12 inches higher than the typical 34-36" bench height. Happened by accident, I found myself just clamping in a piece of 2x4 or something to give me an elevated work area so I didn't have to hunch over the bench and also to get work closer to my eyes. Over time I made several mini benches that clamp into the vises for different jobs. I use them more than the actual work bench. But the arrangement maintains the original bench height for jobs that you have to put your weight into like planing that would be hard to do higher up.

It is a very handy setup, vice spins, temp work surface can be tilted in the vise... all kinds of options. I have general purpose ones and some for rosette work, and another for fingerboards.

Sorry, can't seem to add pictures tonight without them going HUGE on me. Maybe I can update with pictures tomorrow.

I take something like a piece of plywood and glue/screw narrow board to the bottom off center, the narrow board gets clamped into the vise. Sometimes I cover the plywood in cork, etc, whatever you want depending on the task. The off center clamping board allows the elevated bench to be positioned over the edge of the primary bench for easy access. Works great.

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Brian R, Wood Mechanic
N8ZED

Here's another shot at some pictures. Staged because the shop has been overrun with snow plows and mechanical stuff ahead of winter, not my best shop images but you should get the point.



The underside of the elevated mini bench, the light colored wood bar gets clamped in the vise -



Hope that helps,
Brian R

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Brian R, Wood Mechanic
N8ZED

I use a very simple addition for doing close work. I also have my parrot vice mounted on a small box to raise it to acomfortable level particularly for shaping necks.

Dave

I just picked up a Husky Adjustable Height Workbench with a coupon I had. Pretty solid table with a crank to adjust height. It's currently being used as a standing desk as we complete a remodel of our house (currently living in the basement, which is soon to be the shop). But my plan us to use it in the new shop as a multi-purpose workbench.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-62-in-Adjustable-Height-Work-Table-HOLT62XDB12/301810799?g_store=3104&mtc=Shopping-BA-F_PB-G-D25T-25_28_COMPRESSORS_AND_AIR_TOOL-Husky-NA-Feed-LIA-NA-NA-Compressors_And_Air_Tool_BT3&cm_mmc=Shopping-BA-F_PB-G-D25T-25_28_COMPRESSORS_AND_AIR_TOOL-Husky-NA-Feed-LIA-NA-NA-Compressors_And_Air_Tool_BT3-71700000045008692-58700004650922073-92700039927177510&gclid=CjwKCAiAob3vBRAUEiwAIbs5Tj8nkuBswVcwDyHFq2D624Hlc1hC_kkRuAEGIZxPHLwCPDy5cgJPJRoCAEQQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

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Tony Thatcher
Bozeman, Montana

We have an old Mayline drafting table that's very heavy and solid. It has angle adjustment and electric height adjustment. My wife uses it for her textile work. I see them every now and then on Craigslist, often for $300; I'll get one for myself someday. One builder I know uses one and loves it. For now, I have standard height benches and use a small, 4" tall table that sits on the main bench for close work. A drafting stool that adjusts the seat height from 16" 24" works pretty well for me.

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formerly known around here as burbank
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