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I love my Go-bar deck when gluing on my tops and backs. But------------ here's my conundrum:

The top and back glue on more intimately when I have the Go-bars pushing on the top/back rather than placing the top/back on the bottom (resting on the radius dish).
The problem that this creates is that I have no way of cleaning out any sqeeze-out on the inside of the body next to the linings.

Do you have a method you really like to take care of lining sqeeze-out while gluing your tops/backs in?
Thanks

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Formerly know as Mandodiddle.

Great care in how much glue is applied.

Yep I used a squeeze bottle and learned what size bead was enough and not too much. If you use HHG you can let it show and even drip and then charge the client $1,000 more for it as a HHG feature. That's "tone glue" in there....

I brush on TB, then "pile" the glue into a pyramid/bead with pinched thumb and forefinger run round the edges.

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The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.

You can put some type of sturdy tape (something that does not rip easily) inside the guitar, lining the sides, up close to, but not touching, the edge to be glued. You need to use continuous strips that you can access through the soundhole, so that you can remove the tape easily after the glue sets well enough to take the guitar out of the go bar deck. I’ve done this a few times. It’s a bit of a hassle, and you have to get the timing right. And it would stink if you couldn’t get all the tape out for some reason.

Controlling the amount of glue in the first place is probably a better approach.

Also, if you go the hot hide glue route, you can (and should, in my view) cut back on the amount of water used to make the glue. That makes it less prone to run. This is also one of those places where a little bit of urea in the hot hide glue can help with the gluing process. It is easier to be careful with the application of the glue if you are not as worried about the glue gelling on you.

I agree that having the plate on top, rims on bottom, yields the best glue joint if you use a go bar deck for this job.

After a while you realize that it doesn't take much glue.

Watching the Michael Greenfield video was eye opening on how I was using way too much glue.

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I use the right amount of glue, like the others. However, if using Titebond you can clamp up, let sit for 20 minutes, unclamp and clean squeeze out, then clamp again for two hours.

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It will probably be alright.

Another trick with Titebond, and most other glues, is to spread glue on both surfaces. It's surprising how little glue you need if both surfaces are wetted and the joint fit is good.

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Steve Smith
"Music is what feelings sound like"

With solid linings it is a little easier to keep the glue from dripping down between the kerfs. On the last couple of guitars I have been using "wacky wood" linings that bend in both directions - and - also don't have kerfs. You can buy a 4X8 sheet and cut 9216 inches of linings, which would be about 288 strips 32 inches long. The advantage of this type of lining is it installs as easy (easier) than kerfed linings but has the advantages of a solid lining for glue control.

https://www.plywoodcompany.com/MainSite ... Detail/353

On the first batch (pictured) I routed an ogee edge, on the second batch I just used a simple roundover (not pictured)

Thanks, Clay. The "bending plywood" looked intriguing so I talked with Plywood Company today. A 4' x 8' sheet costs around $38. Their estimate to ship it to my home in California was "around $400.00." dang.

If u have a Home Depot nearby they will let u pick up in the store for free shipping. 4’x4’x3/8 Bendable plywood is 40 dollars.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Columbia-Fo ... /310331869

Hi Hans,
Ask around at your local cabinet shops. We used it for doing curved work (when you laminate two pieces of 3/8th inch stuff against each other it will hold the curve for "shell" type construction.
I scrounged scraps that were headed for the skip so it cost me nothing, and most shops will give you the stuff headed for the dumpster or sell you larger pieces of off-fall from jobs they have completed. They may even order you a whole sheet if their distributor carries it. It is a semi-standard item for a cabinet shop supplier and should be available locally.

3/8” seems thick? Does it need to be that thickness in order to be rigid enough or will 1/4 work?


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1/4 inch should work if it is available. You could sand the 3/8's stuff down to 1/4 if you wanted to make it thinner. 3/8 ths is commonly stocked.