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I want to use shellac to finish my next guitar. I have two kinds, a "Light Pure Buttonlac" and a "Dewaxed Super Blond," both from WellerMart. I have not used this brand before, so I have no experience with these particular ones.

Looking for a pseudo French polish, more of a hand rubbed satin finish. Any suggestions as to which of these will be best for he finish?

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Phil

http://www.oleninstruments.com

"Those who tilt at windmills are only considered insane by those who can't see the dragon."

Either one sounds good to me. Most luthiers it seems like dewaxed shellac so that is something to consider with the buttonlac as that is probably has wax in it. You could dewax it but that's just one more step in the finish process. Adn really you don't need to dewax it unless you are going to put a finish over it. But 'light and pure' and super blonde are probably close in color? So basically just pick one and go for it.

I've always used the dewaxed shellac, but mostly as a barrier coat, and very occasionally as a final finish. Some people prefer the waxed shellac for french polishing. The light, pure button lac pictured on the Wellermart site seems to be somewhat garnet colored. It will be much less noticeable when it is spread out in a thin layer, but may impart some color to the finish.
You might want to make some test pieces. Mix up a half ounce of each and see which you like better. 1/2 ounce of flakes in 1/3rd cup of alcohol would be a 2 lb cut. Add another 1/3rd of a cup of alcohol if you want a 1 lb.cut (4 fl.oz. total)

Thanks for the input. I have used a lot of shellac, but it was always either orange or super blond, all dewaxed. Just curious, does the wax have any effect on drying time? Does it make it flow easier when putting on? I've never used buttonlac, so it is new to me. Yes, it is a dark garnet color, but pretty sure it won't impart much color to the wood once dissolved.

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Phil

http://www.oleninstruments.com

"Those who tilt at windmills are only considered insane by those who can't see the dragon."

I'd try them both on scrap first.

I use dewaxed blonde shellac for finishing, wiped on (maybe 12-20 thin coats, knocking off the shine with P100 abrasive every 3 or so coats), then wait 7-14 days before wet sanding level and hand buffing with automotive rubbing compound. I use White Spirit (mineral spirits in the US? oilier than naphtha) for my wet sanding rather than water.

I have some shellac buttons which I've also experimented with - they add a lot of colour and don't harden so well. But I've read of others using them successfully, so I might just have poor quality buttons.

P100 abrasive? Typo surely - P1000 - ?

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The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.

The wax might make it glide on a bit better. I can't say I noticed a difference myself but others have claimed as such. I use oil regardless though so it's nice and smooth.

For the satin finish rottenstone has traditionally been used to take some of the gloss out of the shellac.