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I see lots of instructions for how to install side dots using those plastic rods, but I don’t remember seeing any instructions on how to install pearl side dots on a fingerboard. I thought I would share my method.

One would think the process starts with sizing up the pearl dots in question, but really, it starts with buying pearl dots and a drill bit (or, as I state below, an end mill) that match each other well. Here are photos showing the diameter and thickness of the pearl dots I want to install:







As you can see, the pearl dot is 0.094” in diameter and 0.054” thick. A 3/32” (0.09375”) drill bit would fit these pearl dots very well. However, I like using an end mill, because I like having a flat bottom for these pearl dots. Here is a photo of the end mill I am using:



That takes care of the diameter of the hole, but in order to accurately set the depth of the hole, I want to use a feeler gauge. I am using one that is a few thousandths smaller than the thickness of the pearl dots, because I want the dots to be a little proud of the fingerboard when installed so they can be sanded flush. Here is the 0.047” feeler gauge I am using:



In order to keep the dots in a straight line, I use a fence on my drill press:



Here is a photo of the end mill chucked up in the drill press, with the fingerboard against the fence, and the end mill pulled down to be flush with the fingerboard edge where this dot will be installed:



Keep in mind that, since fingerboards taper, and this installation method has the fingerboard on its side, the drilling depth should be reset for every hole. I guess you could figure out a way to jack up the narrow end to have the edge facing the player perfectly level, but that’s a lot of fiddly work. I like just resetting the depth for each hole.

You can also see that the hole is closer to the bottom of the fingerboard than the top, rather than being centered. That’s because this is done before putting a radius in the fingerboard, which I do fairly late in the build process. When I radius the fingerboard, I will lose some thickness at the edge. I like setting the end mill’s lowest edge to be right at 1/16” from the bottom edge of the fingerboard. That gives plenty of room for flattening and radiusing the fingerboard a few times before being in danger of the dots being too close to the top of the fingerboard.

More in the next post.

Continuing:
Anyway, the point of pulling the end mill down to flush with the fingerboard is to assist in setting the depth stop. With the end mill gently touching the fingerboard, I set the bottom stop on the drill press depth gauge:



With the end mill touching the fingerboard, and the bottom stop engaged, I have both hands free to place my feeler gauge between the top stop and the metal block against which the top stop registers. Then I lower the top stop and lock it, pinching the feeler gauge in the gap:



Many of you experience the same frustration with your drill press depth stop that I do. The top stop just doesn’t lock very well unless you tighten the Dickens out of it, which is hard to do with just your hands. But if you use pliers, it tears up the locking nuts. Some folks design custom stop blocks (which apparently work very well). I instead opted to just trick out a cheap set of pliers with some leather patches (held on by CA glue):



And here are the pliers in action:



They work great! It is a good idea to both tighten the top locking nut and back out the bottom locking nut of the top stop, so that you can remove the feeler gauge without difficulty. Again, this much trouble is driven by the design of most drill press depth stops.

Before drilling, I like to loosen the bottom stop:



Here is the hole after drilling:



And here is the pearl dot in the hole. Perfect fit! Just a few thousandths proud, ready for gluing:



I hope this is helpful.

Thanks!

I never thought of using feeler gauges to set the depth. I also like the end mill idea to get a flat bottom hole.

_________________
I'm not a luthier.
I'm just a guy who builds guitars in his basement.
It's better than playing golf.

Yep, both work pretty well for this task. For larger, deeper holes, you can use setup blocks and Forstner bits in the same way. It's not that different from setting the depth on a plunge router. You "zero" first by lowering the bit to the work, then insert something into the stop mechanism that is as thick as the depth of hole you want.

The end mill is a good idea and the feeler gauge is brilliant! In case it helps, here is the jig I made to square up the fretboard. It is fairly simple and works well for guitar and uke sized boards.





I can’t remember where I first saw this, but I’ve enjoyed having it.

Brad


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That’s a great jig idea, Brad! I’m going to have to build one of those.

I came up with a quick and dirty approach to installing small shell side dots. I drill a deep hole. In order to keep the shell dot from sinking into the hole, I stick it face down on the sticky side of a piece of scotch tape. Place a drop of CA in the hole and then place the tape and shell dot on top. The tape keeps the surface of the shell dot flush with the side of the fretboard.

My method is somewhat similar. Use a scribe to poke holes where I want them (I just do it by eye... if it looks right, it is right), drill with brad point bit, fill the hole with hot hide glue, stick the dot in, and press it down against the bench to get it flush. In the event that any of the holes weren't deep enough, they can be sanded flush later. And the dried glue in the hole prevents the dot from being pushed further in.

Some great ideas here. I always liked to have them be just a hair proud so I can sand them flat. I just mark with an awl without even using a ruler and hand drill.

The depth stop my delta machine is crap. I use vise grips with plastic on the jaws clamped above the stop the stabilize it and sometimes as the stop itself. So far its proved reliable and easy to use. Sorry no pic.

I went through the whole drill press, clever jigs thing and eventually found out that I could do just as good a job, quicker and better freehand.

I use that little scribe that StewMac sells for scribing inlay location as an awl and then an appropriately sized brad point bit started in reverse to set the point and then drill. LMI sells a bit sized for their pearl dots.

To mark the location I use a metal ruler with a couple of layers of binding tape on it in at an appropriate location so that one of the ruler marks lines up with the distance from the top edge of the fretboard I want the dot when the tape registers on the top of the fretboard. Mark with the scribe.

The upper dots are centered but due to the shape of the board and radius the lower ones with the slightly narrower edge are not quite. That concerned me but as it turns out having them all the same distance from the top of the board actually looks better to me.

I admire you guys that can get a drill press jig to work perfectly. I never could.

_________________
It's not what you don't know that hurts you, it's what you do know that's wrong.

A lot of good ideas Don and Brad have offered to add some precision for installing side marker dots.
The last couple of times I have done them as an afterthought - sometimes even after the finish has gone on.
Like many, I drill the holes with an electric hand drill, by eye. If I drill the hole too deep I will go to my dust collection, find the right color, and pack some dust into the hole and push the dot in to compress it a little, but keep the dot slightly proud. Then I will wick in some thin super glue to consolidate the sawdust, and glue in the marker dot.
Next time I may incorporate some of Don's and Brad's methods with the drill press and holding jig.

Another way I just thought of doing it (but have not tried yet, and probably won't, since I have a good method already):

You could buy some of the plastic side dot material the same diameter as the pearl dots. Drill the hole with no cares regarding depth. Stick the plastic rod material in the hole, and mark with a marking knife the precise spot where it exits the hole. Slice that much dot material off, minus some amount slightly less than the thickness of the pearl dot. Stick that short bit down in the hole with some glue, then put the pearl dot on top. It should work. But I know what I do works, so I'll stick with it for now.

Great ideas, guys. Have any of you tried the Dot Doctor from Elevate? I picked one up but haven’t had an opportunity to use it yet.


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Nope, I haven't tried one of those yet. I already have a drill press and the ability to do the other things the Dot Doctor is designed for, so I don't need one. It looks like a useful tool for locating the hole and keeping the hole perpendicular to the fingerboard. I figure depth control is via choking up on the drill bit in the chuck, right? That should work fine, once adjusted properly.

Guess I'm kinda low tech, I've got a real good drill press but I prefer to do it by hand. I'm not in a production environment so I don't have to be in a hurry. I mark the dot locations with a caliper, just two light scratches on the surface, start the hole with an awl and then I use a pin vise for drilling the holes. A bit of tape on the drill bit makes a fine depth marker. I do tuner screw holes the same way. Just another way to do it.

_________________
Steve Smith
"Music is what feelings sound like"

I like to use brass rod, so thankfully I don’t have to be too concerned about depth. I have a set of depth stops though, and I would put one on the drill bit.


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Interesting thread. Always fun to see the length that other builders go to. Doing a rough calculation, I've installed around 6,000 1.5 or 2mm mop side markers. I've tried several times jigging up for the task, but it was always way more trouble than it was worth, especially due to the wide variety of fretboards I have encountered. A lot of simple tasks go fine if you just trust your hands skills. I suppose it comes down to whatever you are comfortable doing. Stay safe!--Bob

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“ The meaning of life is to find your gift and the purpose of life is to give it away” Pablo Picasso

James-I used to use brass rod too, but in a moist climate like Hawaii it turns green and the lacquer lets go making a kind of greenish/whitish bubble in time. I changed to MOP.-Bob

_________________
“ The meaning of life is to find your gift and the purpose of life is to give it away” Pablo Picasso

I’ve had messy results by hand, and that’s a part of the guitar that I don’t like to leave messy, so the method I described above is an attempt to keep it nice and tidy.

Made a jig like Brad’s a few years back, but its static.
And like Don, I finally figured out that my downcut inlay bits are the size I need for the dots.

As have I, Don. Every shared method is a positive addition to the community!


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I envy those of you who can merely eyeball these side dots and get them to look right. The 7th and 12th fret double dots particularly dog me. When I did them by hand, one of the two always looked higher or lower than it should. I agree with the general caution against over-jigging (it can stifle the development of important skills), but for this specific job, I’m happier with the results of the above process than I was after any of the times I did it by hand/eye.

Gosh, y’all make me feel like I’m backward. I put shell dots for side markers in all my guitars, and have been doing it the same way for more than a decade. It has never occurred to me to using anything other than a traditional hand-drill and a 2mm brad-point bit. Locations are marked roughly, but the precise measurement done with a metal ruler as I place the bit on the fingerboard. I use the bit itself as a marking awl. Turn the chuck anti-clockwise with my fingers a couple of turns to locate the point and prevent wandering, then drill gently by hand. Depth is not super important, as the dot is a press fit and secured with ultra-thin CA. A few swipes over a sanding board for cleanup.

I don’t think I want to use a drill press or even a heavy electric drill for this job, an easy-to-read scale is the only precision jig required.


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Yep.


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