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. Finally got a bag to do bent laminations of sides. Got tired of doing it manually, an getting arthritis in my rt hand. Does anyone have pics of their forms? and what are you using for laminating your sides ?. Epoxy, T1 UF. . and why ??? I bought some titebond cold veneer glue . Was getting too much bleed through on my veneer laminations . Thank you in advance ernie.

https://www.veneersupplies.com/categori ... eer__Glue/

Here is some info. I have not used this, and only have laminated a few sides.

I'm using a solid form and Unibond 800. Unibond is specifically made for veneering, it's easy to work with, has a long open time, and dries exceptionally hard. I use a foam brush to paint it on, put the laminates on my mold, and slide it in the bag. Putting a layer of breather mesh over the laminates is essential because it keeps the bag from binding and choking itself off.

Here is a form that might work well with a long narrow vacuum bag. I thermoformed a piece of corian using my bending blanket over a block form to create another laminating form. It's good for laminating, but obviously not bending using heat. In place the kerfkore you could use breather membrane.
You could also make a form like that by laminating wood to make plywood.
I still use west system epoxy for laminating and put up with the bleed through. Someone (Barry?) was thickening it with silica to avoid bleed through IIRC.

I cut the mold using my CNC router, so male and female sides were cut simultaneously; 7 layers of ¾" Baltic plywood, pinned with ¾" dowels. The ¼" router bit created a spacing suitable for a guitar side with a layer of foam carpet padding attached to each face of the mold. For an adhesive, I've been using UltraCat from VeneerSupplies, as wbergman suggests. It takes 2 days to fully harden, but it's brittle-hard when it sets. Coming out of the mold, my sides are typically around 6" wide, leaving plenty of opportunity to excise edge defects while still allowing an aggressive Manzer wedge.

TNx everyone . some good ideas here it much appreciated!. How long does the ultra kat keep for ?. I also have epoxy, an silica. And for laminating long pieces of narrow pernambuco . I have been using dap UF resin glue, it .has worked well . Its good to know that there are several options out there. Just glued some binding using the titebond veneer glue . Was told . it has a high solids content. But can only be heated to 150 f. Allegedly it does not create bleed through . and I done 3 glue binding layups using veneer, an thin solid wood . So far no bleeding.

I bought a bucket of Ultra-CAT (~$30) about a year ago. It's sensitive to moisture (water is the catalyst or, at least, the activator) and I keep it sealed and in a fairly low humidity (<45% R.H.) environment. They say that if it gets clumpy, it's going bad. So far, so good. It requires weighted measurements (powder and water); I use a kitchen scale. It works fine and has an "open time" that's completely adequate for the task.

TNX for the update hans. I have a dry room , always at 45% humidity . Its humid here. What could be problematic is How long the laminates are clamped in the bag using ultra cat. When clamping , how long does it take for the glue to set ? Don t know if I could keep a compressor going for 2 days lol . Using cat seems only feasible , while being manually clamped . Thank you Hans !