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Any ideas as how to beat bend this? I have t gotten to the point of binding yet, but I wanted to start figuring it out ha
I’d also like to use it in the rosette but I’m not sure I can get it that tight.
It’s the rope tyoe stuff from lmii.

Thanks for any advise
B



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Depending who made it (glues and the like) You can heat bend it on a hot pipe. For a rosette I bend it so that it is a bigger than the channel and then bend it into the channel. I have seen but not tried separating the outside purfling to make it easier to bend into the channel. I know I can always bend the stuff made by Gurian Instrument. (sold by many of the large sellers). I have also seen but not tried bending into the channel a bit at a time using a heat gun to make it flexible.

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http://www.Harvestmoonguitars.com

I just used this very purfling on a project. Bent just fine on a pipe to take up position on a shelf inboard of perimeter binding.

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Peter Havriluk

So definitely need to pretend some way... I currently don’t have a pipe ... wonder if I can use my side bender ...

I’m not sure who made them, but it was purchased from LMII


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If you can separate one outside (black) line you can most likely get it to bend tight enough for a rosette. Sometimes wetting it will make it easier to do this. I have done it with herringbone purflings. I just quickly dunk them in the water and pull them out and let the water soak in. You don't want them to absorb too much water or they may fall apart after removing the outside line. After you have it bent you can add back the line as you inlay it.

I would expect if you were to just add it to your binding patties and bend with your sides it would likely come out all right...

The LMI ones are great. You can bend them in a side bender. Stack and tape a couple together to bend them to avoid rolling while pending. Or as Ed says Bend them with your sides.

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http://www.Harvestmoonguitars.com

I've used diagonal "rope" purfling from LMI on a couple guitars. It was a bit wider than the purfling in your photo at 0.100". For the pieces going around the perimeter of the top, I filled a cookie sheet with hot tap water, submerged the purfling in the hot water for 90 seconds, stacked the two pieces and taped them together tight, and then taped them onto one side of the guitar body. Taping them to each other prevents twisting. Left them to dry for at least several hours to overnight. They could have been done on the hot pipe just fine but this method is simpler and faster in terms of hands-on time.

For the rosette below, I bent the purfling on the hot pipe. They bent easy with no separation. Since the purfling you have is narrower, it should bend even easier. Since you don't have a hot pipe, you might try the soak in hot water method and then bend by hand to a diameter a bit larger than the rosette, tape it down, and let it dry.

I've also used the same soak in a cookie sheet and tape to the sides method for herringbone purfling to go around the top of parlor guitar with much tighter bends and it worked fine there too.

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Once in a while you get shown the light in the strangest of places if you look at it right - Robert Hunter

If you have a heat gun, you have a mini bending iron. I clamp the handle in a vise and bend wood bindings, purflings, and linings on the metal end. Don't stand directly in front of it - they get up to 1100 degrees F.
I've had as good of luck with the cheap ones as the more expensive ones. The Wagner seems to have a fairly long metal end:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/HT1000-Heat- ... =CS004&ath

Heat guns sold through hobby sources operate at much lower temperatures than the hardware-store/tool vendor ones. I have both kinds, the high-test one is way too strong/hot for me to use bending (tried it). The hobby-grade ones, and I think they're interchangeable, behave nicely.

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Peter Havriluk

Most of the heat guns I have had (even the cheap ones) had high (1000-1100f) and low (500-700f) settings. One I used (Milwaukee) even had a dial to set the temperature. I don't put the wood in front of the gun, only against the metal end and move it back and forth like on a regular bending iron.

The first are wider than .10 and the second are wider than .08 - I liked the second one better. They both bent just fine on a pipe, and the .250 wide end-grain ivoroid bent with a hair dryer. They were all wide enough that they didn't want to lay flat so I came up with the method in the last shot to hold them in place - just a drywall screw in the end of a strip of scrap held with a clamp. Worked great for getting specific with a problem area. I like the metal tip of the heat gun idea.

Ed M

Depending on the manufacturer, they sometime bend easier in one direction than the other.

If you're bending around murderously tight corners you can separate the black outer linings from the center portion and it'll flex much easier. you can just re-attach it when it's glued in place and you'll be good.

I ran into a herringbone rosette that was on a very small soundhole (luthier built guitar) that had been chipped and needed to be replaced. The herringbone I got was way too stiff to make the turn around the rosette channel, so I just separated the black lining and then with a little heat it took the shape perfectly. And once the middle lining had been put in place I just re-attached the black section.

I'm close to bending the same purfs. I've done a bunch of herringbone that is even wider and I just use a heat gun on low. Even a hair drier would probably work. Just heat up a little section, bend it in place, let it cool, tape in place, heat up the next section..... It goes really quickly. As others have said, you can split the border off the edge by heating it up a little and running a razor blade down the seam. The glue usually releases pretty easily. I haven't tried the hot water approach, though I'm sure that could work well, too.

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Tony Thatcher
Bozeman, Montana

1- wet it
2- heat it w heat gun
3- bend it into cut channels the size you need and let cool
4- install 3)
Whew I was a little worried about it all breaking up, but it did great


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Nice!

Thanks Ed!
All smithed now



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Nailed it!

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Tony Thatcher
Bozeman, Montana

Thanks mountain!
I was happy that it worked out. Honestly I was having anxiety about it, and the maple in rosette wouldn’t have looked right without the ropes.)


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That came out real nice.

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Steve Smith
"Music is what feelings sound like"

Just like nature intended

Ed M

Very clean work and nice looking rosette design. Also looks like that top has some nice bear claw going on.

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Once in a while you get shown the light in the strangest of places if you look at it right - Robert Hunter

I’m sooo excited about this top!



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