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So, recently I heard from a luthier in South Africa whose work I really admire that he prefers to use wooden bridges and nuts over bone.

This got my thinking about the topic since there are some really hard woods. Do any of you use them? If so why? If you have tried and it didn't work out what happened?

Thanks for your time. I'm in the middle of building my first two and am up for some experimentation, but felt it was wisest to ask for experienced wisdom first.


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Violins use wooden nuts and bridges, and many of the early gut strung guitars did too. I think ivory and bone gained popularity because it is more wear resistant than most woods. It also changes the sound of the instrument and some find it preferable. Saddles are relatively easy to swap out and will make more of a difference to the sound of the guitar than the nut material, so that may be a good place for experimentation.

The floating bridges on mandolins are typically made entirely of wood (no separate saddle of another material). Archtop guitars commonly have the same type of all-wood bridge. Early Danelectro electric guitars had rosewood bridges. I don't remember seeing a guitar with a wood nut, but I bet it's been done.

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Once in a while you get shown the light in the strangest of places if you look at it right - Robert Hunter

I've made nuts and bridges of rosewood and ebony. I figured if they were good enough for the entire violin family, they would work on guitars.

I even made one archtop bridge for a client from a piece of oak he had. It was the look he wanted, and it's working to this day.

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"Act your age, not your shoe size" - Prince

Yes, I've done it and like it. I like the look. I assumed I might lose a little in the treble, but I couldn't really discern any difference.

Pat

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Pat

My 1934 Gibson tenor guitar has an ebony nut. It's only been on there 86 years so perhaps too early to say if it's going to wear

I think you mean saddle, rather than bridge. Ebony has been used for saddles and nuts for many years - in guitars and other stringed instruments. There are no fixed rules for such things, so go for what inspires you. For both ends of the string you just need something pretty hard and resilient. If you want wood then ebony is appropriate, but there are many alternatives as hard as ebony, or harder. Check out the Janka hardness scale. If you want something with a dark colour then you can use buffalo horn or black synthetic materials (tusq, micarta). Metals (brass, aluminium) can also work, or fossilized mammoth tusk if you want a very special tone..........

I used ebony or African blackwood for a test saddle on a ukulele to find the correct compensation. I did not notice any change when I substituted the bone saddle, but then my ear is not that good.

they don't hold up well as saddles and depending on the wood the dampening effect can kill tone. best thing is to do an experiment and report your findings

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John Hall
blues creek guitars
Authorized CF Martin Repair
Co President of ASIA
You Don't know what you don't know until you know it

I tried it, and disliked it.

Yes, it works for the Violin Family, but keep in mind, totaly differnt process of creating the sound, and totaly differnt energy flows.

I missed attack, sustain, brightness, treble, shimmer, sunlight

Works on Maccaferi Style guitars, but hey....these guys hammer their guitars faster than the speed of sound....

I have had a block of Camel Thorn (from South Africa) on the shelf for a while intending to try it. It is incredibly hard. I really must get round to trying it.

Dave

I’ve used Osage Orange for the nuts on some fretless basses that I build. I didn’t want gross differences between the fingered and open notes. So far, no problems. With frets, I expect there could be a noticeable difference, but I haven’t done the science.

I had a 30s Gibson L-00 with an ebony nut. Open strings sounded dull.

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formerly known around here as burbank
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http://www.patfosterguitars.com

Farmers and ranchers used Osage Orange for decades here as fenceposts, and since I've sawed up a ton of it and can say without reservation, it's harder than the hubs of hell. Would probably make an excellent choice for nuts and bridges once dried for a couple years.

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"Act your age, not your shoe size" - Prince

Chris

Here on the Eastern Shore of Maryland, hedgerow curvy Osage Orange has been used for boats for a long time. They say when you use it as a fencepost, the post lasts longer than the hole.

And I agree on its use for nuts

Ed M

Lignum Vitae might be an interesting material to use for a nut, as it is very hard and wear resistant and would be self lubricating. It's hard to glue well, but that might actually be an advantage for a guitar nut.

I'm thinking snakewood would also be a good choice. I've used ebony and blackwood before and both seem to work well.

Snakewood.... Love the pattern on that stuff. Lignum Vitae - absolutely a hard material and a bit waxy. That should work, too. It seems we have lots of good choices when it comes to wooden nuts and bridges.

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"Act your age, not your shoe size" - Prince