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Thanks for the info--I'm definitely working in out-of-spec temp/humidity right now, but it still did well. I think a little nip of reducer in the mix would probably have taken care of the orange peel (which still wasn't that bad).

I moved the guitar into my music room which is a few degrees warmer than my shop (still only 65 or so) for curing and after 10 days, it was definitely hard enough to buff out. Very very hard and brittle too. Good signs from my point of view--a lot like shellac but harder. What I'm not sure about though is the bond to the wood. I had a little chip lift up around where I cleared out for the bridge and I wondered if maybe that bond might improve over a longer period of time. Someone earlier mentioned having the finish delaminate on a neck after a while. Hope that's not going to be the case for me. But as much of this stuff as there is on furniture, floors, stairs, etc., I think if there was any major adhesion to wood issue (other than on top of anything but bare wood), we'd probably have heard about it.

Dave

Update--here's a link to the finished guitar.

http://luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10101&t=54006

I did adhesion tests with EV - 3 coats, dry, heavily cross hatch with a knife, press on duct tape, rip off - no issues at all. That was on satinwood, with and without Zpoxy.

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The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.