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banjopicks
 Post subject: Re: Dry reset
PostPosted: Mon Mar 15, 2021 8:06 am 
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Koa
Koa
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Joined: Tue Feb 26, 2008 6:19 am
Posts: 1558
First name: Richard
Last Name: Hutchings
City: Warwick
State: RI
Zip/Postal Code: 02889
Country: United States
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
My own experience with peeling binding off involved a lot of finish work afterwards. As hard as I tried to cut the finish at the line there was still some connection. Maybe I need to work on that first.

The guy is definitely considering the bolt on now after having some time to consider it. The bound neck is the only booger right now.

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Get the heck off the couch and go build a guitar!!!!
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Clay S.
 Post subject: Re: Dry reset
PostPosted: Mon Mar 15, 2021 9:56 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Joined: Sun Mar 30, 2008 8:20 am
Posts: 5968
Darrel Friesen wrote:
Clay S. wrote:
profchris wrote:

But my guitar is a 14 fret body joint, and the magnet tells me that there is truss rod between frets 13 and 14 but not between 14 and 15. Not as helpful as I'd hoped - the truss rod might end a saw kerf's width away from the body, or just enough closer to destroy the teeth. The magnet is about the same size as the 13/14 fret gap.



That is where an oscillating tool comes in handy. Instead of risking a high dollar tenon saw, you only destroy a $1 plunge cut blade.

Frank ford's bone saw may be even better!

https://www.amazon.com/Oscillating-Anim ... B0747NK2ZL
Darrel, Lutherie must pay better above the 49th parallel. I'll have to stick with my $14 HF oscillating tool. laughing6-hehe


Hutch wrote:
"My own experience with peeling binding off involved a lot of finish work afterwards. As hard as I tried to cut the finish at the line there was still some connection. Maybe I need to work on that first.
The guy is definitely considering the bolt on now after having some time to consider it. The bound neck is the only booger right now."

Hutch,
As long as you can loosen the fingerboard extension over the body, there is no need to cut it to do a bolt on conversion. You can either shim it after the reset or just let it be a little bit of "fall away" which many add when building.
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banjopicks
 Post subject: Re: Dry reset
PostPosted: Mon Mar 15, 2021 10:12 am 
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Koa
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Joined: Tue Feb 26, 2008 6:19 am
Posts: 1558
First name: Richard
Last Name: Hutchings
City: Warwick
State: RI
Zip/Postal Code: 02889
Country: United States
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
If you don't remove the neck, how do you do the conversion?

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Clay S.
 Post subject: Re: Dry reset
PostPosted: Mon Mar 15, 2021 11:01 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood

Joined: Sun Mar 30, 2008 8:20 am
Posts: 5968
banjopicks wrote:
If you don't remove the neck, how do you do the conversion?


You loosen the fingerboard over the body, and saw the heel loose from the body. That will allow you to remove the neck and fingerboard as one piece. It might be possible to leave the fingerboard extension glued to the body, saw through the heel, and "floss" it to do the reset, but I haven't done it that way and you would need to figure out how to drill for the "bolt on" working through the soundhole (maybe a right angle drill attachment and a hanger bolt )
https://www.amazon.com/RYOBI-Right-Angl ... 30&sr=8-17
https://www.homedepot.com/b/Hardware-Fa ... 5yc1vZc27n

Disclaimer: I rarely do work on other people's stuff, and generally own what I work on so I only have to satisfy myself with the results.
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John Arnold
 Post subject: Re: Dry reset
PostPosted: Mon Mar 15, 2021 3:51 pm 
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Joined: Wed Sep 08, 2010 12:17 am
Posts: 1286
First name: John
Last Name: Arnold
City: Newport
State: TN
Zip/Postal Code: 37821
Country: USA
Focus: Repair
Status: Professional
My preferred alternative to cutting the fingerboard is to remove the whole fingerboard. While you still have the broken/chipped finish issue that comes with removing binding, I contend that the same issue exists when removing the neck on any guitar that has the neck and body finished after the neck is attached. That includes most, if not all Yamahas.
In any event, skill at finish touchup is imperative if the goal is an invisible (or nearly invisible) repair.

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