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I finally got tired of trying to get my Dremel tools to run concentric and the other options for the SM bases are likely even worse. I’m not saying that the Proxxon tools are perfect, but they are certainly much better built than the “Dismal”tools are. I’m sure folks will suggest a Fordom flex shaft (have one) or the other hi speed flex shaft option that Mr Hall champions. I’m thinking this will meet my needs. If not I’ll keep looking

I used a 25/32 drill in my drill press with a 2 axis vise to dial things in. The result was a press fit. I’ll be adding a set screw, but it kinda doesn’t need it.

Best, M

Nice! That's gotta be better.

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Jim Watts
http://jameswattsguitars.com

The Proxxon is a nice unit. Way better than the Dremel. It's a shame that SM hasn't come up with a stock Proxxon option for their router bases.

Dave

Looks good. Have they increased the RPM on those units? I believe they were only about half the speed of the Dremels when I looked at them years ago. Could be wrong though.

Proxxon is 20,000 RPM vs 35,000 for the Dremel

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The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.

I don’t know if Proxxon has upped their rpms. Just looked it up: Proxxon turns 20k. The Dremel turns 35k and feels like it’s gonna explode in your hand. Not sure what I’d need 35,000 rpms for. I always ran he Dremel at about half chat.

I use my SM base solely for cutting brace pockets in the rims. I hate changing bits between operations so instead I just buy another router/rotary-tool.

Best, M

Looks good, but sad to lose the fine adjustment mechanism of screwing the tool into/out of the base a little bit.

I always run at the lowest speed (I think 15,000 RPM), which is just barely quiet enough to use without earmuffs. Mine is Black & Decker knockoff, which I wouldn't really recommend. It had been feeling like it had a bad bearing for a long time so I finally opened it up to see if I could replace it, and I can't believe it works at all. There's only one bearing on the spindle shaft. The other end attaches to the motor shaft with a funky plastic ball joint. So most likely the bit is actually swinging in a conical motion, and that ball joint is constantly rubbing and grinding itself down. I stuck a piece of masking tape on the ball and forced it back together, so at least it's tighter than it was before.

I always had the dremel screwed tight into base, otherwise it could move around. Plus the 3/4-12 thread it too coarse to be a useful fine adjustment.

M

Seriously? I currently own 5 Dremel tools of different years and styles, and have used them since the late 70's. I've never heard of anyone saying or even thinking a Dremel unit was going to blow up. I've had them wear out brushes, and even had bearings seize and the tool jumped a bit - but they never gave me any indication of exploding. Perhaps you aren't comfortable running machine tools of any kind, or even over-stated your opinion?

You run them at high RPM to reduce the chip load on the cutter. Standard practice.

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"Act your age, not your shoe size" - Prince

I've had the best luck using a really high speed pneumatic die grinder or a really really high speed dental grinder (6 figure rpm) for inlay routing. I use one of John Hall's rigs for the most part. It's way lighter than any kind of Dremel type tool, and the high speed makes direction of cut fairly irrelevant. About 60K rpm.

Going the pneumatic route is night and day better from my perspective for inlay routing. The light weight and the very high speed make it very easy to control. I still use the Dremel rig for routing rims for braces, rosettes and things like that. But otherwise, I'm using air power.

Dave

Same as Dave, I find I usually use the pneumatic inlay tool I got from John Hall. As my Dremels have died off I have not replaced them. I have one left and I keep a cut-off wheel on it for small metal parts. Doesn't mean Dremels are bad, I just prefer other tools.

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Steve Smith
"Music is what feelings sound like"

Sorry if my comments got up your nose. As a lifelong professional woodworker I’m used to a higher standard of quality. Dremel will never meet this standard. PM me with your address and I’ll send both of my dremels, no charge.

Cheers, Michael

Circular reference, but same here. Dremels and their ilk have their place in my shop for sure, and I still use them frequently. Just not for inlay work other than rosettes.

Dave

Will concur. with others , I have both older an newer dremels and their, basically IMHO single use tools at which they excel. One is a mini abrasive cut off wheel. One has a mini buffer /polisher for frets., Another is for routing rosettes, I also bought john halls air tool. Which . I had a machinest redo / aiign with a stew mac rtr. base .According to him the SM base had to be realigned to be dead on center in order for it to be used with the die grinder for inlay an rosette work.. The Proxxon looks like an excellent tool, . Is there much runout in the collet?

Done. Let me know the shipping costs once they are on the way, and I'll gladly reimburse you.

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"Act your age, not your shoe size" - Prince

Boxed up and ready to go. I’ll have Karen generate a label and get them out. We are headed out of town for the weekend so they won’t go out till Tuesday.

I pulled the collets off both to give them a run. One runs much smoother than the other, but neither is as smooth the Proxxon unit.

Best, M

You are an awesome possum. Will give them a good home in the Dremel cabinet.

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"Act your age, not your shoe size" - Prince

I have had 2 dremels physically blow apart in my hand and I haven't even used them that much. For me, the Proxxon is a far superior tool. Won't touch another Dremel.

I believe the earlier Dremels were somewhat sturdier with less runout. Mine is about 20 years old and still works fine. I cut the binding channels on my first two guitars with it using the Stewmac attachment and it turned out well although upgrading to trim routers sure was a lot easier. I still use mine for rosettes and inlay but have been eyeing the pneumtic ones John Hall has. I have a couple of Proxxon tools with the small, detail belt sander being my favorite. I had looked at their rotary tool some time back but questioned the lower rpm for inlay etc.

Yeah, I only use mine for cutting brace pockets in linings so it’s plenty fast enough. All of my inlay work is done with my cnc.

Best, M

OTW -

M

This is a good option. I've got one and find it very useful. It has the same thread as a Dremel so can fit into the SM bases without modification. 5K to 32K. And no cord to yank it around.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-M ... Cy9s2vk0I0

I like that it's cordless. Are the threads that fit the SM base hidden under the black nose cone?

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Once in a while you get shown the light in the strangest of places if you look at it right - Robert Hunter

Yes.

Thanks for the tip about this Milwaukee rotary tool.
I just picked one up from the Borg(HD) here in Canada for $79.cdn. It’s on sale and a good value for the price.
It works great, very little run out if any at all.

I just did a couple of quick tests with it in my stewmac bases and it works great.

Thanks again Dave.
Cal

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Remember, there are no stupid questions, only stupid answers!