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 Post subject: Re: Build started
PostPosted: Tue Feb 16, 2021 12:11 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood

Joined: Fri Aug 19, 2005 4:02 am
Posts: 3263
Location: The Woodlands, Texas
First name: Barry
Last Name: Daniels
A spruce splint over the open side of the x-joint is a LOT better than a piece of cheese cloth.


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 Post subject: Re: Build started
PostPosted: Tue Feb 16, 2021 1:31 pm 
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Koa
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Joined: Tue Feb 26, 2008 6:19 am
Posts: 1559
First name: Richard
Last Name: Hutchings
City: Warwick
State: RI
Zip/Postal Code: 02889
Country: United States
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Sounds good to me, thanks Barry

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 Post subject: Re: Build started
PostPosted: Tue Feb 16, 2021 3:22 pm 
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Cocobolo
Cocobolo

Joined: Thu Aug 15, 2019 12:00 pm
Posts: 255
Location: Tennessee
First name: Terry
Focus: Build
Status: Professional
Barry Daniels wrote:
A spruce splint over the open side of the x-joint is a LOT better than a piece of cheese cloth.



Absolutely agree on this point. cloth is nothing compared to a piece of long-grained wood.

On the subject of back joint, I don't do decorative strips in any of my guitars. If you can't get the joint tight enough for a clean glue line then you need to work out your technique for jointing those edges. This is not an overly difficult woodworking skill, whether using power or hand tools. I've done both on a 22" back joint and a 12' table top. You just need to know your tools and your abilities.


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 Post subject: Re: Build started
PostPosted: Tue Feb 16, 2021 3:41 pm 
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Koa
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Joined: Tue Feb 26, 2008 6:19 am
Posts: 1559
First name: Richard
Last Name: Hutchings
City: Warwick
State: RI
Zip/Postal Code: 02889
Country: United States
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
I do the decorative strip because I want it. I get perfect joins every time gluing tops and backs. My issue was trying to route one in after the fact and the box was closed. I'm sure I can do it with some practice but I'd rather build the strip in from now on. It seemed to work pretty well this time though clamping was a little more difficult then just joining the back halves with tape. I may try joining the 2 halves with tape which always work great on my next one and follow up with routing a shallow strip while it's still flat.

If I ever get a back set that has some color shift to white at the seam, then I may not add the strip.

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 Post subject: Re: Build started
PostPosted: Wed Feb 17, 2021 8:45 am 
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Koa
Koa
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Joined: Tue Feb 26, 2008 6:19 am
Posts: 1559
First name: Richard
Last Name: Hutchings
City: Warwick
State: RI
Zip/Postal Code: 02889
Country: United States
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
I almost spent my morning watching YouTube but caught myself and headed on down to the basement. It's so much fun watching other people make guitars.

I got the braces carved and looking real good. Took the back to bandsaw and cut the shape close. Next up is make sure the cuts are correct on the sides and kerfing. I'm going with about 1/16" depth for the braces. I'm getting really good at making backs and braces. I'm determined that this guitar will be a player at the very least and structurally sound as well. Otherwise it's just firewood. It may even look good, I can only hope.

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 Post subject: Re: Build started
PostPosted: Thu Aug 26, 2021 7:44 am 
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Koa
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Joined: Tue Feb 26, 2008 6:19 am
Posts: 1559
First name: Richard
Last Name: Hutchings
City: Warwick
State: RI
Zip/Postal Code: 02889
Country: United States
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
I wish I took photos but I'm so thankful that I can add wood now and then. I don't know what's going on with me these days, I built 3 F5 mandolins in the past but I can't seem to do this guitar. In shaping the neck, I shaped to far into the peghead and even took some of the fretboard binding, ugh. At least I'm able to fix the peghead and extra stock is glued on and I'll start reshaping it tonight. I don't think there's anything I can do about the thin binding near the nut so I think I'm just going to live with it and get this disaster behind me. I'm just trying to get to guitar number 2 now and I don't have a lot of love for this one. I'll make it a player for sure.

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 Post subject: Re: Build started
PostPosted: Fri Aug 27, 2021 8:09 am 
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Koa
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Joined: Tue Feb 26, 2008 6:19 am
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First name: Richard
Last Name: Hutchings
City: Warwick
State: RI
Zip/Postal Code: 02889
Country: United States
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Aside from the binding mishap, I think I made a good comeback on this one. I added ears and reshaped the headstock. I had already done the right side and I was on the fence about the left side. I'm glad I bit the bullet.

Attachment:
Added ears to reshape.jpg


All reshaped

Attachment:
Reshaped.jpg


I glued the overlay on without a caul at first to make sure it remained tight against the nut blank.

Attachment:
GluedOverlayNoCaul.jpg


After a few minutes of letting the glue set up, I removed the clamps and added a caul and re-clamped it.
You may be able to see where I got the binding thinned out during initial shaping on the treble side. I don't plan to fix it unless I get some really good ideas from you guys.
Attachment:
AddedCaul.jpg


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 Post subject: Re: Build started
PostPosted: Fri Aug 27, 2021 9:51 am 
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Joined: Wed Oct 08, 2008 11:36 am
Posts: 7376
Location: Southeast US
City: Lenoir City
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Zip/Postal Code: 37772
Country: US
Focus: Repair
Sounds like you had no troubles but made me think of something. Maybe my method will be useful for someone. Early on I had problems getting the overlay exactly where I wanted it so I came up with a way to lock it into place while gluing it.

When gluing the overlay I use my headstock template to mark out the outline and location of the tuner holes. I drill the tuner holes to 1/8" using the drill press to make sure the holes are perpendicular to the top of the headstock. Then I take my time fitting my overlay; I like to cut the angle for the nut (already selected and flattened) and then position and clamp the overlay so that there is only 20 or 30 thou to clean up to make the nut fit exactly. I drill two of the 1/8" tuner holes up through the overlay so that it is indexed in the exact position where I want it. Then I glue it using two waxed stainless 1/8" dowel pins and a caul that has a couple of 3/8" holes in it. Once the glue starts to set then I pull the pins. Maybe more trouble than others want to go through but it allows me to get my headstock overlay exactly where I want it and makes fitting the nut easy. I also use 1/16" dowel pins in fret slots 1 and 10 when gluing the fretboard.

Anyway, I'm enjoying following along, back to the regularly scheduled program Eat Drink

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These users thanked the author SteveSmith for the post (total 2): bionta (Fri Aug 27, 2021 7:38 pm) • banjopicks (Fri Aug 27, 2021 10:02 am)
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 Post subject: Re: Build started
PostPosted: Fri Aug 27, 2021 10:02 am 
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Koa
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Joined: Tue Feb 26, 2008 6:19 am
Posts: 1559
First name: Richard
Last Name: Hutchings
City: Warwick
State: RI
Zip/Postal Code: 02889
Country: United States
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
I like that idea and will incorporate it into build 2. Thanks

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 Post subject: Re: Build started
PostPosted: Fri Aug 27, 2021 10:09 am 
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Joined: Fri Jul 10, 2009 4:44 am
Posts: 5493
First name: colin
Last Name: north
Country: Scotland.
Focus: Build
Status: Semi-pro
SteveSmith wrote:
Sounds like you had no troubles but made me think of something. Maybe my method will be useful for someone. Early on I had problems getting the overlay exactly where I wanted it so I came up with a way to lock it into place while gluing it.

When gluing the overlay I use my headstock template to mark out the outline and location of the tuner holes. I drill the tuner holes to 1/8" using the drill press to make sure the holes are perpendicular to the top of the headstock. Then I take my time fitting my overlay; I like to cut the angle for the nut (already selected and flattened) and then position and clamp the overlay so that there is only 20 or 30 thou to clean up to make the nut fit exactly. I drill two of the 1/8" tuner holes up through the overlay so that it is indexed in the exact position where I want it. Then I glue it using two waxed stainless 1/8" dowel pins and a caul that has a couple of 3/8" holes in it. Once the glue starts to set then I pull the pins. Maybe more trouble than others want to go through but it allows me to get my headstock overlay exactly where I want it and makes fitting the nut easy. I also use 1/16" dowel pins in fret slots 1 and 10 when gluing the fretboard.

Anyway, I'm enjoying following along, back to the regularly scheduled program Eat Drink

I just use wooden skewers in the waste area (then shape everything with a robosander) and put a waxed nut in place. Maybe you have things trimmed beforehand.
I use 1.2 mm pins in the fret slots and 4.5mm wooden dowels in the outside bridge pin holes to locate the bridge.

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The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.



These users thanked the author Colin North for the post: SteveSmith (Sun Aug 29, 2021 9:00 am)
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 Post subject: Re: Build started
PostPosted: Fri Aug 27, 2021 10:18 am 
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Koa
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Joined: Tue Feb 26, 2008 6:19 am
Posts: 1559
First name: Richard
Last Name: Hutchings
City: Warwick
State: RI
Zip/Postal Code: 02889
Country: United States
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Yes, I have the headstock fully shaped before adding the overlay. Good or bad, I don't know but it works for me.

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Hutch

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 Post subject: Re: Build started
PostPosted: Sun Aug 29, 2021 8:35 am 
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Koa
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First name: Richard
Last Name: Hutchings
City: Warwick
State: RI
Zip/Postal Code: 02889
Country: United States
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Attachment:
20210828_152922_copy_360x800.jpg
Attachment:
20210828_152845_copy_360x800.jpg


Looks like I'll need some black dye.


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Hutch

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 Post subject: Re: Build started
PostPosted: Sun Aug 29, 2021 9:30 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood

Joined: Fri Aug 19, 2005 4:02 am
Posts: 3263
Location: The Woodlands, Texas
First name: Barry
Last Name: Daniels
Why? I like a little light colored grain in ebony. Looks more like real wood.


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 Post subject: Re: Build started
PostPosted: Sun Aug 29, 2021 9:40 am 
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Koa
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First name: Richard
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State: RI
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Country: United States
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
I do too but this just looks like a mistake. I love streaky ebony.

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 Post subject: Re: Build started
PostPosted: Sun Aug 29, 2021 1:17 pm 
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Koa
Koa

Joined: Sat Mar 09, 2019 4:50 pm
Posts: 1254
Location: Goodrich, MI
First name: Ken
Last Name: Nagy
City: Goodrich
State: MI
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Are you talking about the headstock veneer? I think that the texture in that is amazing. I wouldn't want to cover that up. I certainly wouldn't do anything with the fretboard; grain is grain.

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 Post subject: Re: Build started
PostPosted: Sun Aug 29, 2021 1:31 pm 
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Koa
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Joined: Tue Feb 26, 2008 6:19 am
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First name: Richard
Last Name: Hutchings
City: Warwick
State: RI
Zip/Postal Code: 02889
Country: United States
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Next step is to decide on an easy to cut inlay. I'm moving along.

Attachment:
20210829_140518_copy_360x800.jpg


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 Post subject: Re: Build started
PostPosted: Mon Aug 30, 2021 11:53 am 
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Koa
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Joined: Tue Feb 26, 2008 6:19 am
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First name: Richard
Last Name: Hutchings
City: Warwick
State: RI
Zip/Postal Code: 02889
Country: United States
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Not feeling very creative. I think I'll build a bridge and drill tuner holes. Maybe something will come to me after that. I could just leave it blank like I did on my banjo and wait for inspiration.

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 Post subject: Re: Build started
PostPosted: Mon Aug 30, 2021 3:18 pm 
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Koa
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Joined: Tue Feb 26, 2008 6:19 am
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First name: Richard
Last Name: Hutchings
City: Warwick
State: RI
Zip/Postal Code: 02889
Country: United States
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
I've decided to go pro here and let the Depaule crew make it. I just ordered this.

Attachment:
Peghead Inlay6 (WC).png


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 Post subject: Re: Build started
PostPosted: Mon Aug 30, 2021 3:53 pm 
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Location: Southeast US
City: Lenoir City
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banjopicks wrote:
I've decided to go pro here and let the Depaule crew make it. I just ordered this.

Attachment:
Peghead Inlay6 (WC).png

Nothing wrong with that, I’ve been getting my inlays from them for at least 10 years.


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 Post subject: Re: Build started
PostPosted: Mon Sep 06, 2021 10:23 am 
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Koa
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First name: Richard
Last Name: Hutchings
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Status: Amateur
Started the fret job today. You may remember I had a terrible time with my saw blade and my frets almost drop in. I tried CA on a couple and didn't like it. I'm going with titebond and using my 16# radius sanding block as a clamping call. I can install quite a few at a time using this method.

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 Post subject: Re: Build started
PostPosted: Mon Sep 06, 2021 1:37 pm 
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That's Not a Banjo!

- Your fellow Rhodeyelunder.

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 Post subject: Re: Build started
PostPosted: Mon Sep 06, 2021 1:56 pm 
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Koa
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First name: Richard
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Hey Don, no I don't even play banjo anymore. Fingerpicking guitar mostly.

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 Post subject: Re: Build started
PostPosted: Tue Sep 07, 2021 5:58 am 
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Koa
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No wonder I didn't like using CA for frets. I just watched the SM video and the guy waxe the board next to the fret first. Doh! I still have some frets to do so I'll give it a try after I pick up a fresh bottle of CA. I have some nasty clean up to do from my first attempt. With my shaky hand I got glue everywhere.

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 Post subject: Re: Build started
PostPosted: Tue Sep 07, 2021 7:34 am 
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Wax the board. After I carefully apply the CA next to the fret I give it a second or so to fully wick in then I wipe it with a paper towel and clamp it.

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 Post subject: Re: Build started
PostPosted: Tue Sep 07, 2021 7:47 am 
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Koa
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First name: Richard
Last Name: Hutchings
City: Warwick
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Country: United States
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
After I did this with the CA, I switched to Titebond. With my caul method of clamping a bunch of frets, I think they'll be set in there pretty good. Problem is clean up, being the the slots are sloppy I have to hold down the center of the fret to clean up the squeeze out. This is why I ordered more CA and I'm going to try the wax next to the frets before applying CA. Maybe do this before I've had 3 cups of coffee. Also, I'm thinking that if had trimmed the syringe tip a little so it would fit inside the slot, I might have less squeeze out. Obviously, I never glued in frets before because I never had to except on the occasional lifting fret.


Attachment:
20210907_072438 (WC).jpg


Attachment:
20210907_072350 (WC).jpg


Attachment:
20210907_072314 (WC).jpg


Attachment:
20210907_073422 (WC).jpg


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Get the heck off the couch and go build a guitar!!!!


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