Official Luthiers Forum!

Just got the total costs in to buy and import into UK
Elevate Rolling pin sander + 2 extra wraps P120 absasive comes to £246.41 = $334.11,
Hope it's worth it!

_________________
The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.

Do let us know Colin.

Dave

If this will be your first time using a rolling pin sander, use it with caution on the first go especially if you have 80 grit on it. It's surprisingly easy to sand through a side.

_________________
Once in a while you get shown the light in the strangest of places if you look at it right - Robert Hunter

I mark up the sides with pencil and sand it off. This exposes the low spots. I repeat until level or I decide the low spots are do deep and look toward alternatives to level. The pencil lets me see where I already sanded.

_________________
http://www.Harvestmoonguitars.com

That's exactly what I was doing when I sanded through a Macassar ebony side. The wood was highly figured and the surface was wavy after being bent in a bending machine. I cross hatched the sides with a China marker to do what you describe. It was my first time using a rolling pin sander and, unfortunately, I didn't realize just how aggressive the 80 grit on the sander would be. I suddenly noticed that a patch of the wood along one edge was changing color from ebony black to reddish brown and then quickly realized that was the color of the mahogany lining. Many, many bad words were said.

_________________
Once in a while you get shown the light in the strangest of places if you look at it right - Robert Hunter

I have a rolling pin sander but won't use it on sides anymore due to this issue.

Colin, I know it’s yet another tool and all tool purchases lead to the purchase of more tools, but… this was recommended in the group some time back and I really like it. I have way better control of the rolling pin sander and options for lower speeds helping to avoid sand through. My uke sides are bent at .065 or so and it’s easy to go through. If using laminated sides the risk is of course higher. Food for thought.

BOSCH PS11-102 12-Volt Lithium-Ion Max 3/8-Inch Right Angle Drill/Driver Kit with (1) High Capacity Battery and Charger , Blue https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BD5G3UC/re ... UTF8&psc=1

Brad


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

_________________
Insta - https://www.instagram.com/cbcguitars/
Facebook - https://www.facebook.com/cbcguitars

I have one of the pneumatic ones--I've used it on things like heels and necks--great for these purposes-- but I don't use it on sides for the reasons others have mentioned. It's undoubtedly a good tool for that, but I don't feel confident using a tool that aggressive on such thin wood.

Dave

The Elevate rolling pin sander works well. I have the old version with a rubber drum and I imagine the new version is even better. I like to use 100 grit -- 80 grit is quite aggressive.

You should be using it at a slow rpm and with steady control. As with everything when it comes to woodworking -- there are many different ways to approach a task and not everyone will gravitate to the same approach. For sanding the sides, I like to use the rolling pin sander to get mostly there and then follow up with a wood block with 3M Stikit. I also use spring steel slats with 3M Stikit for the curves. I picked this tip up from Mike Greenfield and it allows you to smooth the contours perfectly and easily (no chasing bumps/humps). I find this incredibly useful for the tailback and headblock regions.

I have the Elevate ones and a couple of inflatable ones. 4 in all. I mostly prefer the inflable ones for what I do. A little more forgiving and easier on the sand paper. I rarely use any of them handheld anymore. I prefer to chuck them in the drill press. Holding the body or neck works better for me. Don't use them a lot, but occasionally they are very useful, so worth having at least 1. If I had to choose between the Elevate ones, I'd go for the larger diameter one.-Bob

_________________
“ The meaning of life is to find your gift and the purpose of life is to give it away” Pablo Picasso

I tried motorizing an extra rolling pin from the kitchen. That didn't work out too well
I think I will just spray glue some sandpaper to it and use it manually - it might be a bit less aggressive.

Thanks folks, I appreciate the suggestions and comments.
I have a 2 speed cordless, low being 0-350 rpm (controllable).and bought 2 rolls of 120 grit with the sander as the main abrasive.
Now that I'm laminating sides they seem to come out much flatter, so should only need a light touch.
But neck shaping can be a time eater, and I'm hoping to cut down on time and increase control there at the neck and head stock flares.

_________________
The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.

Have to say I wouldn’t dream of using 80 grit abrasive at this late stage of construction. Even if you don’t sand right through you are going to have huge grooves to deal with.

As Colin says 120 grit might be right, maybe 150.

Dave