Official Luthiers Forum!

not "sure" in any way, which is why I used the word "infer"...HellDepot only has stock on hand with no delivery available, Lowe's lists them online but they are also not available (in any fashion...e.g. none at the stores)...I like the variable speed part of it, but the sub base is too enclosed for my needs (a lot of free hand routing where vision is a necessity...in fact I've started using the 7310 that I cut the base in half because of the need to route for new hinges on jambs almost exclusively for free handing stuff as I can see a LOT of what's going on)

either way, looks like you all are already taking steps to deal with the situation...

If you need good visibility you might want to consider an old Rockwell 64 with the wider base. You can make a two piece sub base that straddles the bit and allows a clear view of what you are doing. Even with the standard sub base you have better visibility than with most trimmers.

Really hope the 611 sticks around. Great unit, especially with the precision aftermarket collet. I bought three extra plunge bases last year to permanently attach to various jigs, so I can move the unit with the precision collet from jig to jig quickly.

issue is that router has the same issues as the 310 and 7310...OUT OF PRODUCTION!...e.g. replacement parts are costly if available at all (the spindle lock button for the 7310 is now unavailable as an example)

here's the rub...the first trim router I ever used was the 7310 around 30 years ago...I know that flawed sucker like the back of my hand having used them so much, so when they were discontinued (which happened without my noticind) about a decade ago I made a point of scouring and finding 2 of them in Arkansas of all places that were available...I just recently killed my original made in USA (armature I'm sure from the signs) and it really isn't worth the cost to repair it and since I have 3 others still working I'm probably good for a long while

to be more specific in my mod of the 7310, I cut the aluminum sub base right down the middle of the hole, and then proceeded to make a 12" long base for it about 2 1/2" wide with a half circle of 1 1/2" diameter for the bit...this works great for it's intended purpose and as noted I've started using it almost all the time when freehanding stuff then finishing off with a hair shaving sharp chisel

Bit off the point but you are going to get some backlash in any adjustment system - some more than others of course.
Another point entirely has anyone tried the battery powered DeWalts? They could save a lot of hassle if they work well.

Dave

I got the battery powered one recently and used it for a rosette. Stable, powerful and great not to have the cord pulling on the router at the end of the circle. Got it online at HD as a free addition to a starter set of batteries and charger.

Thought I'd mention the Bogdanovich router base for the rosette that I used was a economical solution for the trim router. https://www.jsbguitars.com/shop/guitar- ... ttachment/. Some set up issues for my jigs, but worked great when I got it locked in.

The PC 7310 routers will outlast most of the competition. I had a couple, and picked up a couple more (MIM) when they were being sold on a closeout discount. They have been sitting in their boxes on the shelf if the others ever wear out. One nice thing about the old Rockwell/PC routers - the different models share a lot of the same parts - switches, collets, and collet nuts, and possibly brushes, similar to their bigger brethren. Even though they are "obsolete" you can still find NOS parts or cannibalize a dead donor from a production span of the various models of half a century+. One of the things I like about the 64 and 64clones is that they were sold as consumer type routers so you can sometimes find a 50 year old "closet queen" that still is like new for a relatively low price.

P.S. If you remove the button lock on the 7310 you can probably stick a screwdriver in the hole to lock the spindle. I have an old PC 155 trimmer that has a hole to stick a screw driver all the way through the housing and spindle to lock it for changing bits.

Clay,

I rather like the concept of a screw driver all the way through, that's much better than a PITA spindle lock button (I prefer 2 wrenches for a plethora of reasons)...your stick a screwdriver in for the 7310 has already been discussed between me and the guy who maintains my tools (in general...my employer would rather me have him do it than have me working on tools as opposed to working on wood)...as far as that I have the one that just died and will swap out the parts...as noted, parts are scarce...even if I wanted to now spend the $135 to replace the armature, I can't as it's not available anymore..nor is the field coil...etc...yeah, I'm sure somebody could rebuild it, but is that really worth the cost?

oh, as far as the MIM 7310's...they don't hold a candle to the USA ones, both of the ones I'm currently using are already showing signs of bearing failure (thank goodness those are still available) and never were as good as the ol' made in USA one from 30 years ago

this whole discussion has made me realize I need to use those routers as needed, and I've realized they aren't needed for when I make a template and use a top bearing pattern bit...and it's a rare day I take a hit for the team and use my 310 in the field, but it has been known to happen when I need high accuracy adjustments

My 310 and Bishop Cochrane plunge base were the sh&%, but I struggled with bit changes as well and always had to give the side of the bit a few solid whacks.

I have three 310s, for probably 15 years. One in the Bishop C base as well. Some router bits will release tapping the loosened nut but several will not and I have to remove the collet and place it on a 4” block of wood with a 1/4” hole drilled in it and tap the bit out with a wooden dowel.

I have gotten so used to it that it is not that big a deal. The Bishop Cochran is so great it’s worth the trouble.

_________________
It's not what you don't know that hurts you, it's what you do know that's wrong.

Hi Mike,
Although the PC7310 trimmers can do some pattern routing I like the PC690 routers for those intermediate tasks. I think of routing as basically side loading the bearings so I try to take smaller bites and not hog off too much material at a time. For heavy duty routing I use a PC7538 3 1/4 hp router.
The Rockwell 64's are only rated at 4 amps (like the 310's) as opposed to the more modern 7310's 7 amp rating, but I think the amps were a little stronger back then. The adjustment is not quite as fine as the 310's, but much easier than the 7310's.
Inevitably tools do wear out. An armature is a pretty major component and relegates most tools to the salvage yard. What I find frustrating is having a relatively new tool where a minor component (switch, brushes, collet, etc) is impossible to source because the manufacturer no longer makes that model.