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I have used thin superglue to wick in threaded inserts in necks for a long time (before I went back to hangar bolts). This worked fine and gave the extra bit of hold that sometimes seemed to be necessary to keep the insert from threading back out of the heel. But, I did this on one guitar a couple of years ago where I used a fairly porous piece of African Mahogany for the neck, and the thin superglue wicked right through the heel and left nasty looking dark spots on the heel. Turns out, it didn't matter--I wetted the heel down with Naphtha to get an idea of what it would look like under a finish, and it was OK. I finished this guitar using Royal Lac, and the superglue spots disappeared under the finish. But it's something worth considering.

I'd use a medium CA before threading in the inserts in the future to avoid that wicking problem.

Dave

At this point reading your post, I was thinking "wow, that actually works and doesn't soak all the way through the heel?"

Thin CA can work miracles, but it sure goes everywhere.

As I said in our last neck bolting thread, I want to try lag screws threading straight into the wood. As long as you're careful to find the existing thread if you ever take the neck off and put it back on, they shouldn't ever wear out. And the high friction of screwing into wood will eliminate the issue of metal bolts vibrating their way loose when they lose tension due to humidity shrinkage.

Ive Never had an Issue with SS Interesting

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Some tips to avoid galling.
https://www.essentracomponents.com/en-g ... 20coatings.

Some of the new materials proposed for truss rods (stainless, titanium) seem to be the same ones prone to galling if not treated carefully.
Another metal prone to galling - aluminium. I have a Kern level permanently welded to a Wild tribrach from the simple action of screwing one to the other. It works fine but no longer fits in the carrying case.

I uses this bolt for my guitar building, its easy to buy here, usually for knock down furniture...

sorry for double uploaded

Just went through the grueling exercise of finding hardware for a barrel and bolt mortise and tenon. Thanks to everyone in this 2022 thread for the comments. A great take-away was "do not use Stainless Steel" because it gauls, and seizes up. I will coat the threads lightly with vasoline even though I did not order SS.

Took multiple hours to find #10 (10-24 to be specific) barrel and button head cap screw of appropriate size and dims. I could have done it in 5 minutes if 1/4-20 hardware was used. THATs why people use 1/4-20

I found from reading this thread, and searching countless hardware suppliers, that the terminology for this hardware is NOT standard, which added to the time it took to find 10-24 .

For instance, McMaster Car lists the barrel nuts as "Dowel Nuts for Wood" with "Binding Posts" on the Dowel Nuts landing page.
https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/130/3526/90835A220
The large, flat head screw (which was not available in the right thread/ size) was called "Binding Screws", and not a searchable description on Mc-Carr site.

Now that I have the 10-24 Bill of Material, I'll just re-order, as needed, and keep my fingers crossed that this stuff will be available in 5 years.

For posterity, with McMaster Carr descriptions and order numbers, and Godspeed with your search:

Dowel Nuts for Wood 10-24 Size, 1/2" Long 90835A220
Black-Oxide 18-8 Stainless Steel Washer, Oversized, Number 10 Screw Size, 0.203" Id, 0.5" Od 90377A123
Button Head Hex Drive Screw, Black Oxide Alloy Steel, 10-24 Thread Size, 1-3/8" Long 91255A249 (too long; will cut down)
Black-Oxide Alloy Steel Flanged Button Head Screw, 10-24 Thread, 1" Long 91355A170 (too short perhaps but I will have them)
*Belleville Spring Lock Washer, Black-Oxide Stainless Steel, For M5 Screw Size, 5.2 Mm Id, 10 Mm Od 91235A613

*Not sure if this is the right application for these, based on comments, but I can use them elsewhere if not.

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Karl Borum

The bolts are OK but those inserts can and should be much improved upon…

1/4/20 Furniture bolts and 10mm barrel nuts in a reinforced tenon for me. I drill a 3/8” hole with a jig and enlarge to 10mm with a reamer for a snug fit.

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I use 1/4-20 furniture bolts and brass threaded inserts. I bought some stainless threaded inserts but never used them because the male threads of the insert were too fine for my liking.

Reading here about galling potential for this application got me thinking and my thoughts there are that it is likely overblown.

I reach thru the soundhole and tighten the neck bolts with the short end of an allen wrench between thumb and fingers.

I set up a test block with a 1/4" nut on a furniture bolt with a block of wood between the bolt head and nut and tightened it as tight as I could get it. Tighter than I do in practice. I set my inch pound torque wrench at the lowest setting (20 in lb) and checked torque on the furniture bolt. The bolt turned 1/4 turn more before it tripped the torque wrench. Already too tight IMO. Setting the wrench to 30 in lb was enough to start pulling the head of the bolt into the wood, way tighter than you would normally want.

Galling primarily being a function of friction, pressure and heat to the point where metal is being transferred between surfaces - I think it highly unlikely to be a problem in our application. The fastener needs to be tight enough to generate galling conditions.

Smaller bolts and finer threads increase the risk. Cross threading a more likely cause of galling in guitar fasteners.

JM2C

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Brian R, Wood Mechanic
N8ZED

Thread lube like SWAK will work
Ok to keep SS threads from galling. Stay vigilant

I have used a single 10-32 hangar bolt. I like fine threads in this application.
This is a common attachment for Gibson style banjos.

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John