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Just bought a 3/4" plank of very pretty Bolivian Rosewood (?!) on a whim, thinking I'd resaw it on my newly acquired Inca bandsaw to use for sides on a future build after I let it dry out in the desert for at least a year. But it occurs to me that I should at least ask, am I better off letting it dry as is first and then try to resaw or stack up the resawn slices for drying? It came to me from Oregon, and I do my building in the desert, so I typically let materials dry at least that long before I start another build. Thanks for any opinions. Roy

If you slice it now it will likely potato chip. I would leave it in your shop for a year with the ends sealed.

But, I’m not a pro. Maybe others with more experience will have counter advice.

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As said, I would leave it whole for a while with sealed ends. Practice with your new saw on expendable wood before you do the good stuff. Resawing isn’t difficult, but it goes better with a bit of experiential wisdom. Get the experience on less special wood.

When I’m acclimating wood to my 40% shop, I weigh it to the gram when it comes in and write the date and the weight on it. Every few weeks I check it. When the weight stops declining for 2 or 3 checks, I declare it ready for action.

Thanks, Guys. Glad I asked.

Roy

You might want to "suit up" when you resaw it. Bolivian rosewood (a.k.a. Pau Ferro, Morado, Santos rosewood) is a fine wood, but some people react to the dust similar to cocobolo. I think it has a nice spicy aroma when sawed, but it is a known sensitizer, so breathing the dust and skin contact is to be avoided as much as practical.
I would be surprised if it takes on or loses much moisture if it has been kiln dried, but I have never lived in a desert.

Keep acetone away from Morado. It will make the colors bleed and look yucky.

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I doubt your billet is so wet it will really matter one way or another. However, it's been my experience that cutting green hardwood billets into guitar backs and sides and properly stickering them to stop warping is the best method. A 3/4 inch hardwood green billet will airdry about as much as possible in a little less than a year. The general rule of thumb is 1 year per inch to air dry, and the best you're likely to get in most climates is about 11-12% moisture content. Results may be better in the desert, but general timeframes will be similar. Obviously, dry time is substantially reduced when dealing with green wood cut to .150 or so. I'm usually dealing with 2-3" billets. Anything over 2 inches has a tendency to case harden and seal moisture in the center of the billet for much longer than the 1 year per inch rule of thumb (can happen with thick kiln dried wood too). But the main benefit I've found cutting backs/sides sooner rather than later is much less loss due to checking. Moisture can find its way out of the thinner pieces much more easily and uniformly than larger billets. Warping is easily managed by using proper stickers, weight on top, good air circulation, and rotating the stack as it dries.

None of this really matters if your billet was kiln dried before you received it. Cut it whenever you like.

-Aaron

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Aaron Craig