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PostPosted: Sat Dec 17, 2022 5:00 pm 
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Can anyone think of any problems with putting a 9 to 12 radius on an acoustic?

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 17, 2022 5:48 pm 
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I’d question the need for a compound radius on a flattop guitar, considering conventional action spec and generally less propensity for acoustic players to execute deep bends and flowing legato passages up the fretboard :D but there’s no technical reason why it is unviable. I have a vintage jumbo built in the 60s with a factory 7.25” radius that someone has compounded out to 10”ish up the neck during a refret.


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These users thanked the author joshnothing for the post (total 2): Hesh (Sun Dec 18, 2022 2:46 am) • Pmaj7 (Sat Dec 17, 2022 7:18 pm)
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 17, 2022 6:14 pm 
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All of my acoustics have a compound radius to allow the lowest action possible for the players style. Obviously more important for some styles than others. Mine run about 16 - 20. If you want a 9 - 12 I don’t see any reason not to do it.


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These users thanked the author SteveSmith for the post: Pmaj7 (Sat Dec 17, 2022 7:18 pm)
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 17, 2022 7:46 pm 
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I've done a 9 to 12 on an archtop and it worked fine.

I've always liked the feel of Gibson fingerboards over Martins, mainly because of the radius of the arch. Just easier for me to play. A Fender is a bit easier for me yet, so a 9 to 12 seemed logical.

I'm mostly doing 12" non-compound nowadays--I didn't feel enough difference between the compound and straight radius boards to make it worthwhile for my playing (and I've been building for ME). My arthritic fingers play barre chords easier on the tighter radius.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 18, 2022 2:48 am 
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SteveSmith wrote:
All of my acoustics have a compound radius to allow the lowest action possible for the players style. Obviously more important for some styles than others. Mine run about 16 - 20. If you want a 9 - 12 I don’t see any reason not to do it.


Steve


Same here AND all the fret work our shop does we impart a compound radius on the instrument(s) as well. It's, the compound radius is baked into how we dress frets and as such not an option with us, everyone gets a compound radius.

9 to 12 is a little tight for an acoustic traditionally speaking but you could make it work.



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PostPosted: Tue Dec 20, 2022 4:04 am 
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Thanks everybody! So I was refretting an old Gibson j-50 and when sanding the board I was trying to keep as much board as possible. (I use a long beam) Keeping the radius smooth I ended up with 8.5" on most of it and transitioning to 12" starting at about the 12th. Birko fret cauls are great.

I was able to get 3/64-5/64 and a happy client!

Pat

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These users thanked the author Pmaj7 for the post (total 3): Durero (Tue Dec 20, 2022 2:48 pm) • Hesh (Tue Dec 20, 2022 10:03 am) • joshnothing (Tue Dec 20, 2022 6:08 am)
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 20, 2022 10:08 am 
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Pmaj7 wrote:
Thanks everybody! So I was refretting an old Gibson j-50 and when sanding the board I was trying to keep as much board as possible. (I use a long beam) Keeping the radius smooth I ended up with 8.5" on most of it and transitioning to 12" starting at about the 12th. Birko fret cauls are great.

I was able to get 3/64-5/64 and a happy client!

Pat


Yay I'll bet the client was thrilled!! Good going Pat.



These users thanked the author Hesh for the post: Pmaj7 (Tue Dec 20, 2022 11:27 am)
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 20, 2022 11:33 am 
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joshnothing wrote:
I have a vintage jumbo built in the 60s with a factory 7.25” radius


Interesting, what kind of a jumbo came with a 7.25?

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 21, 2022 7:00 am 
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Pmaj7 wrote:

Interesting, what kind of a jumbo came with a 7.25?

Pat


It’s a ‘62 Hofner 496. I don’t have a pic of mine handy but here’s one of the same model:

Image


The neck is cantilevered over the body like an archtop, neck joint is Stauffer-style and neck angle is adjustable with a clock key. Back and sides laminated flamed maple.



These users thanked the author joshnothing for the post: Pmaj7 (Wed Dec 21, 2022 10:47 am)
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