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Couple of OMs going with Brazilian fretboards from wood I got from Jim Olson a long time ago

IMG_8067 by Terence Kennedy, on Flickr

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It's not what you don't know that hurts you, it's what you do know that's wrong.

That is Candi Brandy Wine over Black Pearl with Metal Flake . Accent Parts are going to be just Black Pearl with Metal Flake

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The Shallower the depth of the stream , The Louder the Babble !
The Taking Of Offense Is the Life Course Of The Stupid One !
Wanna Leave a Better Planet for our Kids? How about Working on BETTER KIDS for our Planet !
Forgiveness is the ability to accept an apology that you will probably NEVER GET
The truth will set you free , But FIRST, it will probably Piss you Off !
Creativity is allowing yourself to make Mistakes, Art is knowing which ones to Keep !
The Saddest thing anyone can do , is push a Loyal Person to the point that they Dont Care Anymore
Never met a STRONG person who had an EASY past !
http://wiksnwudwerks.blogspot.com/
http://www.facebook.com/groups/GatewayA ... rAssembly/

I meant brand and type of finish - like DuPont or acrylic lacquer.

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"Act your age, not your shoe size" - Prince

That does suck. I have an orphan Cuban Mahogany side for the same reason (anyone got an extra one out there, hint hint). I haven't broken a side since I bought one of John Hall's benders and a blanket some years ago. Touch wood.

I know this is the acoustic guitar section of the forum, but what's been going on in my shop lately is my first electric build. It is a chambered hollow body guitar, so it does have some acoustic tone to it...

Anyway, it's my take of a late 40's Paul Bigsby guitar. Shane Larson in Canada built the Bigsby style pickups (and did a great job I might add). It's a chambered sapele body with a padauk top. French polish finish. My interpretation of Paul Bigsby's face in the peghead (a good example of why a lot of tattoo artists refuse to do portraits...) Anyway, it's got that early electric guitar sound and it's a blast to play. Need to make a truss rod cover though. I'm pretty happy with it as a first try.

Dave

After failed lacquer, sanded to bare wood and re-shot.
Working on polish, assembly soon.


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wah
Wah-wah-wah-wah
Wah

Sweet inlay.

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Love the Bigsby!

have a pile in the spray booth one for a well named person who built all spruce guitars.
interesting concept
I did a waterfall bubinga for a commision and a bubinga 0000 12 fret in a class also an OM my son built for a commison in Austriala pics will follow this is only first coat

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John Hall
blues creek guitars
Authorized CF Martin Repair
Co President of ASIA
You Don't know what you don't know until you know it

Fitting the back braces

Untitled by Gary Davis, on Flickr

A new Modified Dreadnaught - Sitka over Lacewood. Been a while since I built one of these, everyone seems to want OMs and 00s.

Cheers, M

PS The fretboard is Royal Blackwood if anyone is interested in what that looks like. If you don’t know, it’s torrefied Purple Heart

I finally had a reason to use the shooting sander I got for Christmas. Joining up some scraps from a back plate to use as a heel cap. I used the tape method that Bob and Bryan shared at the last OLF meeting to glue it up. Worked great!







Brad

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Brad--

Is that an LED tape light stuck down in a trough, to help with candling a top/back center seam? I like it! I need one of those.

Correct. I routed a channel, put the led strip in, and cut a small strip of acrylic to bring it back flush to the surface. Works great!

BTW - I learned that from our friend Aaron O in his ukulele video series.

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This is one in EIR using a cylindrical back with compression bracing (courtesy of Rory Dowling of Taran Guitars) and nicely silked Torrified Sitka with Poplar Burr rosette in progress.



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The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.

I've been wanting to design a new bridge and since I have 3 guitars waiting for them, I finally got around to working something up. Then figuring out how to make them and then a test run.

These are slightly over sized but reducing size/weight is pretty easy. I tried to carry something of the shape of my headstock into the bridge so it's squished down in length and stretch out in width, I'm probably the only one who would notice.

The edges facing the tail and head will be rounded over and final sanding yet to go. 2 - padauk, 2 - ebony, 1 - macasser. In the multi bridge pic, mine are on the left, right are commercial bridges.

Second pic is next to one of the headstocks.

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Brian R, Wood Mechanic
N8ZED

Brian, if I could make a suggestion. I would move the saddle slot a little closer to the top edge to aid in the ability of the bridge to rotate, which is a good thing for tone.

Thanks Barry

Always open to suggestions. My limited experience, and lack of knowledge has exposed me to some variation from normal standards. Sometimes it works in my favor, sometimes more work.

One of those trips off road had the saddle a little further south and it is still a very good sounding guitar.

So I’m not too worried about it but thanks for taking the time to post.

Stringed instruments are always a compromise, sometimes we want the bridge to rotate, but we never want it to stay that way.

But it always makes it fun.

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Brian R, Wood Mechanic
N8ZED

Brian I like the lowered surface for the pins which will help the break angle and be very useful later in life as neck reset time approaches. As the saddle comes down to nearly nothing proud of the bridge that design element will help notes ring loud and clear.

I also like the looks of it, very cool.

Colin

Thanks for the last post and especially the picture with the well made caul for inside the body bridge gluing.

I snipped out a piece of that pic to stick on the shop wall as a reminder to do that BEFORE the body is closed.

I've been known to forget that, .

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Brian R, Wood Mechanic
N8ZED

Eager to assemble this one.
I filed the frets down to 0.030” tall to emulate a fretless wonder.
This is a test run for the frets. If all goes well, I’ll do this on my current build.


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wah
Wah-wah-wah-wah
Wah

That's definitely a looker! I like it a lot. Good luck with the frets.

Dave

If it's any solace, you're not the only one who's forgotten

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The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.

On the 3rd OLF Roundtable, I said that I dropped my cello, and broke 2 ribs, but I bought replacements, and would fix it. Brad said in the review, that I recovered.
Well, I had a recovery PLAN.
First I had to recover from the nasty head cold I got.
Yesterday I recovered.
The ribs are on. I glued them on the day before, but after gluing the lower bout, I realized I could tell it wasn't tight enough, and the joint line wasn't just right.I had to work the glued ends at the upper and lower blocks off, The upper one wasn't real tight, because I glued it after I saw it would be a two part job. So it came off fairly easy.

The lower bout was tougher. For Christmas I got a glue syringe with small tips. Forgot I even put it on my Amazonian list. I put some hot water in it, and squirted it in small seams I could work out. It didn't take that long to get it free between that and a heat gun. It was glued on pretty good.

The ribs are tapered, the belly is bigger than the back. The biggest difference is at the lower block. It has a 7 degree angle. The ribs are about 5" wide at the bottom, and the stock was about 5" wide, so I had to cut the lower end of the ribs at a large angle to get the rib to lie on the form, and cover the lower corner. Because of the way the angle is, it works easier than it looks.

My original rib stock was wider, so it was never a problem. So the recovery was more complicated.

It needs to be trimmed. The liners can be used to fine tune the outline. I tried using cardboard forms made from the back and belly; but they just got in the way.

It's warmed up to 54 down stairs. I don't stay down long. I don't pick up either. I have to get the cello out of the way.

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Why be normal?

Awesome, Ken!

I’m doing an Osmo oil finish on the neck of the walnut 00. Thanks to Michael Colbert for pointing out the Josh House videos. I’m off to the races!









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