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I saw this on Facebook, seems like it would be perfect for rounding over the binding edge. I use sandpaper, but this seems far superior. Anyone know the name?

Closest thing I found was this but it looks more like a high tech way for me to punch a hole in the top.

ALLWAY CS6 Soft-Grip Contour Scraper Set with 6 Blades and Blade File https://a.co/d/auwRvJW

Brad


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Craig Wilson sent this to me. Craig is trying to get to the OLF but his account is stuck in purgatory somehow.

Here is the tool - https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/to ... dge-bander

Very affordable!


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[quote="bcombs510]

Very affordable!


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Wow, I may need a couple!

Joking aside - looks easy enough to make! I’ve got bindings to radius, like, tomorrow - It may be time to batch something up…

Count me in!

Pat

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Pat

Another option - https://www.virutextools.com/scraper-pid392

PS I just ordered one - $25US with shipping.

I've always called them a beading scraper. You can use an 1/8th round router bit out of the router to hand scrape edges in a similar fashion. You can also make a beading scraper out of a piece of an old handsaw or a card scraper by using a small round file to cut and sharpen the profile.
Or for a bit more you can buy this: https://www.lie-nielsen.com/products/br ... -blade-set

I usually use the 1/8th round bit, either in or out of a trimmer.

Looks clever (the Virutex scraper). Want.

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"Act your age, not your shoe size" - Prince

Same. Thanks for the pointer!


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Enabling Tool Acquistion Syndrome. It's what we do.

The virutex scraper looks pretty interesting....

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Thanks! I ordered one too.

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Sorry…

Looks like I'll be taking a needle file or two to the edge of one of my cabinet scrapers to give this a try ....

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The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.

The video in the Lie-Nielsen demonstrates methods for "sharpening" beading scrapers and also mentions making custom profiles (using A-2 tool steel blanks they sell)

On another note:
Cockatoos should not be left alone to call their friends in Australia - especially after watching K-dramas. Phone found slammed on floor, sans buttons, batteries, and back panel. This is the second phone the 'too has destroyed.

They are absolute hooligans.

I wonder how you would go about sharpening the Virutex scraper?

Furniture makers call this sort of thing a 'scratch beader' or 'scratch stock'. You can cut all sorts of different profiles. It's also useful for running a curved molding around a corner where you can't make the profile with a molding plane, such as around the hood of clock case.

I've known about these forever, but I never made one until I was asked to give a talk on scrapers at a luthiers meeting. Now I wonder why I put it off so long. It even works well on curly binding if you scrape in both directions.

Sharpening one is easy. Lap off the dull burr from the surface, and then use a file straight across to produce a new burr. The edge work-hardens a bit as you sharpen it, and can last a long time.

The Virutex tools I have, and others I have used have always been of the best quality. That scraper will probably stay sharp for as long as most of us would ever use it, but might also be sharpenable similar to the Lie Nielsen scrapers. It's just another "make or buy" decision we all have to decide for ourselves. I tend to misplace small, occasional use tools, so "breaking edges" and rounding them off with whatever edge tool and scrap of sandpaper at hand is second nature to me (and I'm O.K. with a less precise result).

$81 for a scratch stock? I mean this is the type of tool craftsman would just make whenever they needed one and in whatever profile they wanted. This is why you keep old tool steel lying around.

I'm not sure if I ever shared this story here or not, so if it starts sounding familiar just skip it. The man that lived next to me when I was a kid was a patternmaker by trade. He was long since retired before I discovered woodworking but when I was first starting out, I talked to him a bit about it. He happened to be the kind of guy who didn't listen as much as he talked. He was just wired more towards telling you what was what than taking in what others were saying. His mind had also begun to slip well before we talked about woodworking so the conversation was difficult. I was telling him that I was trying to get the hang of sharpening a cabinet scraper. He was hearing nothing of it, all he could say was that I shouldn't be using a cabinet scrapper because they were no good. He said just grind the teeth off an old file when you need to scrape something. As far as I could tell, he was talking about scraping paint and crud off of your stock or a piece of molding or something. It wasn't until after I learned about the hard/thick scraper from Alan Carruth, that it made sense. I thought back to what he was saying. He was describing making Carruth scrapers and scratch stocks. I was just too naïve to pick up on it through his rambling. As a pattern maker, he was making all sorts of crazy shapes and smoothing them without sandpaper. I often think about what else he could have taught me had I 1) got into woodworking sooner and 2) actually spent time in a shop with him listening. I would love to have him around now to watch me carve a neck and hear about how he would have approached this. He was trained to take measured drawings of 3 dimensional (often organic) shapes and preproduce them in wood for casting. He was the woodworking equivalent of a 3D printer.

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Bryan Bear PMoMC

Take care of your feet, and your feet will take care of you.

Nice story Bryan,
I think we all have a few missed opportunities with similar regrets.
Lee valley tool - amateur woodworking clientele - $81
Virutex tool - professional cabinet trade - $18
Slight reversal of the numbers

Tool steel vs carbide although it wouldn’t be worth the extra for me.

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Steve Smith
"Music is what feelings sound like"

Hi Steve,
I missed that difference - but I'm not sure I would want something that thin to be solid carbide. A hard knock or drop against a hard surface might be the end of it.

I too missed that it was carbide. Still, I would think you would have to do lots, and lots of guitars to see the advantage of carbide over tool steel in this application.

I've been easing my edges with very light sanding opting for a corner (but not sharp) instead of a mild roundover. I can see the advantage to a small round over though. Next time I finish a box, I'm going to make a scratch stock and try it out to see how I like a rounder edge.

Great thread!

Edit to ask: I assume that you round over folks are not rounding over under the fretboard extension. How are you handling that transition? Especially if you are using a router bit?

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Bryan Bear PMoMC

Take care of your feet, and your feet will take care of you.

I leave that section square.

Same here. I actually mask off the area under the fretboard so I don’t forget while sanding. I stop sanding 1/2” or so short of the tape and at the end feather into the squared edge to hide the transition. It’s so small it probably doesn’t matter.


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You can make your own similar scrapers. I first saw it in A book on Classical Guitar back in the 1980s(?). It showed how to file a shape into a scraper (or break a scraper into smaller pieces) for various jobs. The one I remember most, was for shaping the tops of braces.