Official Luthiers Forum!

I’m dealing with grain y cutting along scored lines. Hope I can post pictures. What other techniques can you suggest.
I’m using a small 5-6” saw to deepen lines made by cutting gauge. Splintering but repairing easily. Seems there would be some better options.

Bob

Photo didn’t post??

When I cut binding ledges for Osage, I score and then make successive cuts starting with the biggest bearing I have and stepping through to the final size. Even then, I sometimes get chipout. I run the router slower than usual and clean up first so I can find the chips and glue them back. Also, the better the side is quartered, the less it seems to chip. But, that’s hard given the variation in Osage Orange’s grain on some pieces. Having a nasty vocabulary doesn’t stop the chipping but sometimes relieves the feelings.

I have limited set of bearings ordered more last week for different reasons. I think tape the short term answer. I have cut 1/32” deep and still bad chips. Recovering chips is great idea.

I am surprised at many breaks as they show poor assembly quality. I thought I had better glue adhesion. Many areas with poor contact.
Bob

Glue some paper onto the side. Any sort of glue will work. Scrape it off after you glue on the binding. I use this also when bending sides that have a lot of run out: paper is stronger than you might think, so it can prevent cracks, and and holds the chips in any event.

Paper.
I see how that works.
Great idea.
Thanks
Bob

Considering which glue, I now wonder about tapes of various types. Did you try plastic or masking tape. What qualities needed? I see brown paper and yellow glue as starting points but messy. Is it necessary?

What thoughts are out there?

Thanks
Bob

Paper and glue bonds more tightly than any tape. Yes, it's a mess to remove. OTOH, it's less of a problem than the sort of blow-out you can get when routing a brittle wood that has run out. I once had to cut a set of Pernambuco sides about 1/4" shallower than planned after getting router blowout, even with scored sides. Paper on the sides saved further such problems.

I am convinced.
I don’t want blowout

I have used hide glue in areas that might show. However I have white Elmers that would be easier to apply but a mess to remove.
Any preference you recommend?

I’m certainly going to try this the next time I make an Osage guitar. Why not fish glue? It ought to clean up with a wet rag and some patience. Any body tried that?

I've used Titebond and CA in the past, and both work pretty well. I originally started using paper on the outside of tight bends to keep the wood from peeling up, and also on stuff like Padauk that tends to split if you think about it too much. Both will put up with some heat from bending. I usually use reclaimed copy paper; it works well and it's free. Here's as shot of a papered over bevel cutaway being fitted: the paper is an old coffeehouse flyer. The grain of the wood runs parallel to the lower edge.

\

Copy paper and white glue worked great. My initial problem came from poor adhesion of vertical braces. I can work on that.
The saw causes more problems than it solves.
I had to raise router bit 1/32” but was able to clean up the shelf quickly.

Thanks for suggestions.
Bob

Paper worked out great. One small chip which I lost.
I also found I could take skimming cuts rather than cuts full depth. 3 or 4 rather than full 1/8”.
I successfully posted another picture
Bob