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PostPosted: Thu Apr 27, 2006 5:09 am 
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Koa
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For those of you that use highly figured bindings, I just got a set of killer Snakewood bindings from the Zootman and have a question. This will be for my first SS guitar--when using highly figured bindings, do you usually add a purfling line between the binding and side, or not? I know I'll have purfling on top, but I'm thinking the purfling on the side might detract from highly figured bindings. The back and side will be EIRW. What say you all?

Thanks!

John


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 27, 2006 5:16 am 
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John, this might be like asking everyone's favorite flavor of ice cream. But I'll say this, I've used a b/w/b purfling line on almost every high-figured binding scheme I've used, and it always looks better to my eye.
Of course, UMMV. And old grumpy Russell will chime in and say that's not how they do it in GB!

But perhaps one thin maple line would look nice.

SK

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 27, 2006 5:26 am 
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I think if you are using a dark binding against a dark wood expecially since you want that snalewood (as Lance calls it) to shine, you need at least a simple and contrasting line to make it happen. So a nice single line purf on the back and sides and at least a double Purf on the top. And all mitered around the backstrip and tail wedge.John How38834.6031134259

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 27, 2006 6:00 am 
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I have not done side purflings before and have used flamed maple on the last few boxes I've done.

Here is a couple of pics




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PostPosted: Thu Apr 27, 2006 6:44 am 
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[QUOTE=Steve Kinnaird] John, this might be like asking everyone's favorite flavor of ice cream. But I'll say this, I've used a b/w/b purfling line on almost every high-figured binding scheme I've used, and it always looks better to my eye.
Of course, UMMV. And old grumpy Russell will chime in and say that's not how they do it in GB!

But perhaps one thin maple line would look nice.

SK[/QUOTE]

Steve,

Well this Mr Grumpy does

Rupola lacewood binding on Cuban Mahogany sides:


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 27, 2006 7:00 am 
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Hmm, those side purflings do look really nice. How would you guys recommend I add the purfling now that I already have the cut bindings? Do you think I can just glue them on with Titebond and they will survive bending?

Thanks again!

John


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 27, 2006 7:01 am 
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Personally I think the side perfing adds that extra level of class to a guitar, pushes it over the $2k range.

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[QUOTE=John Elshaw]How would you guys recommend I add the purfling now that I already have the cut bindings? Do you think I can just glue them on with Titebond and they will survive bending?[/QUOTE]

I too want to know how to do this, I have some nice mac eb to make into bindings and want to add a maple strip to it.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 27, 2006 7:05 am 
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John, I wouldn't attach them. Make a pack of two binding strips and the purflings in the middle. Wrap them tightly with tape all the way down so it looks like a barber shop pole. Then bend them. This gives you a little more flexibility if your miters don't work the first try, you can scooch it down and try again.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 27, 2006 7:14 am 
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No I'll let you off on this one Steve, Either look is cool


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 27, 2006 7:21 am 
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[QUOTE=John Elshaw] Hmm, those side purflings do look really nice. How would you guys recommend I add the purfling now that I already have the cut bindings? Do you think I can just glue them on with Titebond and they will survive bending?

Thanks again!

John[/QUOTE]

John,

I glue the side purflings to the bindings with Titebond II, then bend them in the Fox bender (not the Piggy Toaster ):

I use small strips of masking tape to hold all 4 strips together and make sure that purfling isn't touching purfling (the purfling is on the outside 2 edges and the otside of the next 2 bindings - this gives the correct shapes for 2 top and 2 back bindings)

Paul's method will work fine too but be careful when you glue the binding/purfling that the purfling doesn't sit too far in to the body leaving a void when you scrape down.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 27, 2006 9:30 am 
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Russ--many thanks.

Dave W.--that's a fine looking guitar! Of course all we can see here is one bit of one side, but I bet you handled the rest with aplomb. Or perhaps with acherry, but I still bet the whole thing looks good.

John E.--I frequently glue purflings on after the strips are cut. CA does a wonderful job at this task, and gets 'em on pretty quick, too. That stuff holds up beautifully under heat.

Rod--agreed.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 27, 2006 1:17 pm 
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Great idea Paul--I always wondered how you could bend purfling sideways if it wasn't glued. Problem solved.

John


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It's Tim McKnight's solution. He saved my purflings many a time by teaching me that one.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 27, 2006 6:55 pm 
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Dave now that is one cool toaster


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I glue the purflings to the bindings with super glue and bend them in the bender, they don't come apart. I like not having too many sparate purflings and bindings to deal with when I glue them to the guitar.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 28, 2006 11:13 am 
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Do you guys use the 1/16" wide purfling for the sides.
They look narrower in the picture.


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PostPosted: Wed May 03, 2006 10:56 am 
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Anyone?
Or is it a dumb question   


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PostPosted: Wed May 03, 2006 1:19 pm 
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Alain - how much is 1/16th? I use .6mm veneer for purfling.

I usually glue it up to the binding material before it is cut, with titebond or titebond II if I have it around from more complex inlays.

John E., in my opinion side purflings are essential. To not include them (In my opinion) makes it look like you cut corners or do not quite have the ability, even though they're quite easy. I find guitars with side purflings much more refined than those without, but it is only an opinion.jfrench38840.9361921296

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PostPosted: Wed May 03, 2006 1:22 pm 
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When bindings are already cut, use some mdf boards on your workbench, and hang them over the edge. Glue the purflings together beforehand (for example, maple-ebaony-ebony-maple) then cut them close to binding width, then use spool clamps to glue them to the purflings. Its easy, but no where near as fast as doing it all at once.jfrench38840.9354050926

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PostPosted: Wed May 03, 2006 1:23 pm 
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Also - I am with Hesh re dyed vs. natural woods. but I'm a classical maker so it doesn't count

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PostPosted: Wed May 03, 2006 1:47 pm 
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Alain - how much is 1/16th? I use .6mm veneer for purfling

I meant 1/16 of an inch (1.6 mm)

I have 1/16 x 1/16 bwb purfling but never used them as they just didn't look right to me.

Next time I will try a veneer glued to the binding before I cut them.Alain Lambert38840.9499537037


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