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Hi all, i'm about to build me a neck joint a la sylvan Wells, John Mayes, Paul Woolson ang Terry Kennedy. My question is this: Do you guys build the neck first or is it possible to build the neck block with the receptacle and the fillit under the fretboard, prior to building the neck?

Another question pops to mind: If i can build this kind of joint before the neck, that L-shaped block you guys build, does it have the 1.5 degree that would allow it to be butting against the under top so there wouldn't no gap compared to if i were to use a 90 degrees L shaped neck block ?

Sorry for my sentencing or formulating my lengty question! All your help is really appreciated. TIA

SergeSerge Poirier38836.0600694444

Thanks Terry, i printed Sylvan's instructions and your post on that subject but my neck isn't made yet, i had just finished making my tail block and was wondering if it was possible to go ahead and build the neck block without the neck at hand ?Serge Poirier38836.3530555556

Serge, you are on the right track. I build my bodies first and make the necks to fit them (see my jig in the plans area, works like a charm). If you mortise the extension area a little deeper than the tennon (which you need to do anyway so it will all suck down properly) you'll have a little verticle room for adjustment.
I cut the top of the block at 1.75? which is my angle of choice. You'll need to figure out the angle of your guitars before you just start randomly cutting angles. I suggest, if you haven't already, to draw the profile full size. You'll learn alot about your angles.
After you dome the top of the rims, you want to flatten the extension block and everything above it. It needs to be angled but not domed. I just use a board with sandpaper and go at it.
If I can help in any way, let me know.

Thank you very much Paul, i really appreciate that! I'm building with the LMI dread plan (PL11) and the neck angle on there is 1.5 degree, so if i understand you well, i should transfer that angle on the upper part of the L, in a reverse fashion and flat(not domed). Do you still have a drawing of that L shaped block or a description on how you build yours or a pic? I have a hard time visualizing on how to go about it. It would really help!

Serge

Thanks also Terry, do you guys have any pics of the neck block and dimensions that i could use for my dread? That kind of joint is critical and i want to go slow at it so i can do it the proper way . THANX

Serge, here's how I go about it. I start with a board that is 3" wide by 1 1/2" deep by what ever length I have. I'll set my table saw blade at 1.75? and cut off an end, rotate the board 180? and cut off the other end. Reset the blade to 90? and cut off the peices to my desired block height. Continue the process until I have no more board left. When I put the upper support on, I use 3/4" baltic birch and cut a dado in it 1 1/2" wide and about 1/8" deep. This allows for more than just an endgrain attachment when I put it on the block.
Hope that helps. Let me know if you have more questions. P

Ok Paul, i see a little clearer, that 3/4" baltic birch upper support that you glue on top of that 3" X 1 1/2"(same dimensions as mine BTW) board, what length do you cut it? do you make it butt against the upper transverse brace ?

My braces are not made yet so i thought it would be a good idea to include that upper support dimensions on the design of the braces first. Thanks!Serge Poirier38836.4848958333

I no longer use 4 small bolts on the side of the truss rods. I use two
larger bolts as I run my truss rod though the headstock now...I'll try to
get a pic of it next week, but it is the same basic principle...

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John Mayes
http://www.mayesluthier.com

Serge, the length should be that it does indeed but against the upper transverse brace. It's important to make it all one unit so to speak.

Serge, I use two dowels into the top of the neck block to add strength to the endgrain glue joint...maybe 1" long or so...

John, how do you cut the relief in the headstock to adjust the rod? That's the only thing keeping me from going to headstock adjustment!

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http://www.presnallguitars.com

[QUOTE=L. Presnall] John, how do you cut the relief in the headstock to
adjust the rod? That's the only thing keeping me from going to
headstock adjustment! [/QUOTE]

By CNC... I pay John Watkins to do it for me... but it's just a small
.250x1.225 rout for the access cavity. Here is a pic of my headstock. the
truss rod "cover" actually fits exactly inside the cavity....

_________________
John Mayes
http://www.mayesluthier.com

Thank you very much Paul, all clear for the one unit thing and keeping it all flat on top of the upper support, i think i'm gonna draw this block on paper(3d) to make sure everything falls into place snugly!

Thanks also Larry, the dowells tip sounds good too. i might include that as well in my design!

Will let you all know how it turns out, thanks for all the great advices my big brothers!

Serge

Ok John, thanks! I was hoping you had made some kinda magic plywood and goathair jig to do that... Is John making your necks now (read, "wanna sell your router bit?" ) or is he just doing the truss rod pocket? Beautiful guitar too, by the way!

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http://www.presnallguitars.com

[QUOTE=L. Presnall] Ok John, thanks! I was hoping you had made some kinda magic plywood and goathair jig to do that... Is John making your necks now (read, "wanna sell your router bit?" ) or is he just doing the truss rod pocket? Beautiful guitar too, by the way! [/QUOTE]

Yep, that's exactly what I thought..."sheez, that's a beautiful headstock."

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Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines.