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I missed out on the group purchase of these sets. are any more available?

any interest in another group purchase?

You didn't miss out, I'm actually starting a Guitar Jig company with the friend of mine who got the bearing bits for me, and now I can get this set at the same price for now on. Just send email to me at tl507362 AT yahoo.com and I'll get you a set. I'll soon have a company website up, where you can see some of the nicest jigs around. These will be the highest quality jigs ever. Also, since my friend has a cnc machine, he can replicate just about anything. So if any of you have jigs that you would like to be made professionally, let me know, and I can make them, and sell them to everyone on this forum. More on this soon.
Tracy

Tracy,

If you really want to make a great cutter set, do this:

Have the cutter made with a slightly longer end on it to receive the bearings a bit farther away from the cutter. I find that typically the bearing is so close to the cutter that it almost falls into the binding ledge when cutting a purfling ledge on a top. I prefer to cut the binding ledge first. It's very difficult with typical bits. Need a longer front end!

_________________
"I want to know what kind of pickups Vince Gill uses in his Tele, because if I had those, as good of a player as I am, I'm sure I could make it sound like that.
Only badly."

Don, would it be possible to add a spacer between the bit and the bearing and just use a longer screw?

I ask because I am trying to decide on whether to get a set of these. Als. I like to do the binding first as you do. I know what you are talking about, the bearing almost dropping off in the binding groove.

Just a thought...

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Dave Rector
Rector Guitars

Don and Dave,
GREAT suggestion about the location of the bearing. I usually cut my purfling channel first, so I never noticed this problem. But I can see where the problem lies. I'll ask my friend if he can modify the design. It may take a while to get this done, but I'm sure he can do it. I also want to get him to also include a bearing that will make a flush cut, this way, you can just put the flush cut bearing on first and remove the overhanging edges, then put on the right bearing for the binding channel without having to remove the bit. I'll see if he can do this and report back. Thanks!
Tracy

[QUOTE=Don Williams] Tracy,

If you really want to make a great cutter set, do this:

Have the cutter made with a slightly longer end on it to receive the bearings a bit farther away from the cutter. I find that typically the bearing is so close to the cutter that it almost falls into the binding ledge when cutting a purfling ledge on a top. I prefer to cut the binding ledge first. It's very difficult with typical bits. Need a longer front end! [/QUOTE]

Don, I see a potential problem with moving the bearings too far from the cutter; a small amount of tilt is going to translate into even more discrepancy.

Me, I prefer to cut the purfling before the binding for just this reason; more support.

Mattia, I think Don is just looking for a little more separation between the bit and the bearing. You may be able to get away with a longer screw and a few (well centered) smaller washers. Since the screws are small (6-32?) you can't go too much longer, or they could flex and wobble as you suggest.

I think a test is in order!Pete Licis38421.5307291667

Guys, do you think 1/32" move is about right?

I think it would depend on the individual's jig and level of skill. My ledge jig has an infinitely adjustable foot to index off the side, so I don't use bearings. The foot is about a half inch below the deepest cut, so I never have a problem with the foot "falling into" the routed channel. Of course you can't have that kind of separation with a bearing setup.

So is 1/32" enough? I'd suggest if no one is able to give you an answer from experience, just go and try it on scrap. Add another washer and try 1/16". You'll know it's right when your cuts all come out good without a problem.
:-)

Pete

Pete,
Personally, I think the answer is to just cut the purfling channel first, then it doesn't matter any more. I'm afraid that moving the bearing could result in an unstable design.

Personally, I think the answer is to just cut the purfling channel first

Yeah, I guess so, huh? Simple is good.

Pete

I was going to rebind my first guitar. When built, I scraped the ivoroid too thin in places. I was going to try to rebind it and replace the herringbone too. I discovered the falling bearing syndrome. I considered the non-bearing rout as a solution.

The Stew Mac bearing design will allow a little shimming, not much. the bearing fits on a shaft that's 1/4" long. It can be moved only a little. In my case, not enough for stability or for my comfort level.

Since we pay so much for these tools, I'd like not to have to buy them twice. SO, if anyone is making a new cheaper version (THANK YOU, BTW..) It's functionality should accomodate most operations. Some prefer to do binding first, or in some cases, repair work dictates methodology.

FYI, The LMI stock photo APPEARS to have more separation than the Stew Mac model. Too pricey for me to own an almost duplicate set. The upside is that you can cut channels that will also accomodate glue & swelling with out shimming with tape (One time tape came loose, and I almost had a heart attack. a 1" long piece of masking tape ripping through the air at 30,000 rpms sound like a jet flying through your shop. I thought the cutter had exploded. And YES I DID wrap it the right direction!! )

This forum is a great place to get input so we can all get, manufacture, & or redisgn the best tools we can get our hands on. (Preferably before production )

Thank you all for teaching me so much! I hope my experiences can be useful as well.