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I have used everything betweween #4 and #7 for this, and my favorite is the #5 1/2. Just the right heft, and long enough for the relatively short joint between the plate halves. The jointer planes (#'7 and 8) are unneccasily bulky for this joint in my opininon. (BTW, the #5 1/2 is also my favorite for thickenssing plates).Arnt38852.6274074074

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Rian Gitar og Mandolin

I'm using a #5 1/2 too for exactly the same reasons as Arnt mentions. I find the #4 works pretty well, although the extra length of the #5 1/2 makes it easier to get an even joint.

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53% of all statistics are made up on the spot
http://driftwoodguitars.blogspot.com/

Yup... a 5 1/2 is perfect. (IMHO) I Splurged & bought the Lie Neilson, but any well tuned plane of a similar length should work fine. Heavy is good!
I used to use an ancient 22" Bailey, but it's way bigger than necessary.

Don't know about the LN, but my type 11 Bailey works beautifully and I'm pretty sure it's a fraction of the cost of a new LN. And, it has a lot more soul + BRW knobs! Give Patric Leach (of "Blood and Gore" fame) a call, he probably has one in stock or he will find one quickly. Arnt38852.6494675926

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Rian Gitar og Mandolin

I used a Bailey #5. Get a used one off ebay; work as well as a new LN and, as Arnt says, they're a fraction of the cost. You can easily get good "users" in a #3, #5, and #7 off ebay for the cost of a single LN jointer!

Then again, I just can't afford LN planes, so it's probably just sour grapes

Hesh,

I have a Stanley #4. I'm happy with it, so I haven't looked around for anything else for jointing plates. Had a terrible time with it until I found the sole was arched, that I didn't know how to get an edge on the iron, and that I didn't know how to set it up. Much better now!

I've bought several on ebay with good results, especially with replacement irons from Ron Hock.

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now known around here as Pat Foster
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http://www.patfosterguitars.com

Hesh...Consider the Anant Planes. They are relatively inexpensive. I have 3 of them and after tuning them up they perform every bit as effectively as a LN.

Spend an hour truing up the casting...throw away the blade and chipbreaker and replace them with Hock equivalents.

I saved hundreds of dollars by going this route and I'm able to joint and thickness tops and most backs and sides. I'm still learning but I've been pleased with the progress.

You're right...it doesn't take up any space and is a lot guieter and produces much less dust than the power equipment. On the other hand...it is much slower to use planes. But there's something relaxing, refreshing and rewarding that I find from using planes.

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JJ
Napa, CA
http://www.DonohueGuitars.com

I used to use a 5 1/2# for jointing and thinkenssing my tops (5-10mm electric guitar tops) but now use a 7# for jointing the tops and find it work great, I use a old stanley bedrock as it has alot less weight than a LN which are to heavy for fine work on thin wood IMHO.

Well... Normally I can't affort LN tools either, but I'd had a good year & some money burning the proverbial hole in my pocket.
My sweet wife actually talked me into it, saying I'd been working my butt off & deserved a treat!
I bought the high angle model 'cause it works well on figured wood. I never dreamed it'd make such a good jointing plane. The old 22" Bailey is mostly just gathering dust these days.
The LN 5 1/2 model is 14 1/2" long & as heavy as a small tank. But... it doesn't have Rosewood grips .

Hesh -

Even if you buy a new plane, if you don't buy a super-high dollar plane like a LN, you'll have to do the same fettling that you'd do on a used Bailey. To wit, you'll have to lap the sole and (if you're using it as a shooting plane) at least one side of the plane (like you'd lap the back of a chisel). You'll also have to lap and sharpen the iron obviously, and you might have to "sharpen" the chipbreaker so it sits perfectly flat against the lapped side of the iron.

Then, no matter what plane you buy, from a $500 LN to a $50 Bailey, it's about setting the chipbreaker the right distance from the edge, setting the frog at the right spot to give you the proper throat opening, and setting the depth of cut.

FYI, Garret Hack's "The Handplane Book" (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1561583170/002-5336883-193 2062?n=283155) is the best written resource I've seen on setting up a hand plane.

If you do go looking on eBay, about all you need to look for is serious rust and pitting. If the sole and iron aren't badly pitted, you're probably OK. Also don't want any cracks in the body, and intact tote and knob are nice features as well.

If you really just don't trust buying a used Bailey off eBay, Anant is about the only reasonably priced new handplanes I've seen; I'm disappointed to hear that the irons and chipbreakers aren't of sufficient quality. New Stanley planes and other brands carried by the big box stores are in my experience very, very difficult to get into working condition.

One of my favorite parts of guitar and furniture building is making piles of curly shavings! Have fun!

jay

I have a few Lie-Nielsen planes and a few Lee Valley Veritas planes. I would recommend the Veritas for the money. For the most versatility, buy the Veritas Low Angle Jack Plane. Read the instructions on the site before you buy. I have the LN version, and if I weren't an idiot about planes(buying and using many of them) I could thin down my herd and use this type for ,oh so many things. My thoughts, MT

I have a Lie Nielsen 4-1/2 smoother, a little on the short side for joining but it does the trick. It seems less expensive the more I use it.

That said, I've heard many good recommendations on woodworking forums for the Veritas planes from Lee Valley, many consider it the best value for a good quality tool. And no adjustment or tuning needed aside from honing the blade. (I hate repeating advice with which I don't have any personal experience, but I've been kicking around the idea of getting a longer plane for joining, so I thought I'd mention that).

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Jonathan Kendall, Siloam Springs AR

Hi Hesh

As others have said, I find a No. 5 the ideal plane for jointing tops etc, Mine is an old Record that I bought cheap and cleaned up and would not change for the world, if you want new then probably LN is the way to go, if you have the budget.

I've joined with a #4 1/2 and a #5 (only two I've got, other than block and fingerplanes), and I prefer the #5. Works a charm. I've got a Steve Knight wide jointer coming, but that's actually more for use jointing solidbody tops (thicker) and solidbody blanks, and prepping rough timber than jointing tops.

I'm keeping an eye out for old Records and Stanleys with the right price tag, though...decent 5 1/2 wouldn't be bad, and a good #4 to replace the not-so-great new UK-make stanley I have would be nice, too. Just missed out on a Record #4 on ebay today (Best Crucible Tungsten Steel Blade), went for a trifling 25 quid. Grr. Argh.

Hesh
I use the Lie Nielsen #5
The sole is 13.5 inches
Great plane
Lie Nielsens are expensive, but they are the best built
Andyazimmer138852.739224537

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Andy Z.
http://www.lazydogguitars.com

Interesting timing. Just this morning I ordered an Anant #7 and the hock blade and chipbreaker based off of JJ's recommendation he gave in another thread a some time ago. Up to now I have been using an old Stanley #5 I got off of Ebay and cleaned up but have had inconsistant results with that (it's got to be the plane, not me ). I suppose if you were skilled in using planes the #5 would be fine but I've had little experience with planes and found myself spending a lot of time on something that should be a fairly quick job.

Here are some links to sites that sell the various planes mentioned in this thread:

Highland Hardware

Lee Valley Tools

Woodcraft

I (and my students) use my Veritas low angle smoother, blade tuned at 42 degrees, efective angle 54, the mid size one with the 10 inch sole - I plan to get the low angle jack when the cash flow allows !!!! Freshly sharpened up, and set for the thinnest of shaving, it does a top in about 3-4 strokes (I joint it first on a 6 inch jointer to get it close). But even without the machine work, it would easily do the job.

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Tony Karol
www.karol-guitars.com
"let my passion .. fulfill yours"

If you want a great jointer plane, check out steve knight toolworks. i ordered one last year and it is relly nice and he is a really good guy to do business with. He can make them as fancy or plain as you want. I ordered a plain plane ( ) made of vera. Looks plain but works great.

I used a 6" Stanley block plane for my first, and then went through exactly what you're going through now. I settled on a 60 year old Stanley Bailey #5, got it off eBay for $50. I'll never go back.

Hesh,

Just as Jay said, unless you spend hundreds on a LN or its ilk, you'll end up having to tweak even a new one.

Judging from your guitars, you're easily up to the task of lapping the sole and setting it up. Have a look here

Patrick Leach's Blood and Gore

This page on Leach's site goes to the types of Stanleys that have been discussed here (#4, 4 1/2, 5, etc.). There are other sites, but this has been my main reference. He has a mailing list of stuff for sale. His prices are higher in most cases than ebay, but you won't get any unpleasant surprises. The earlier Stanleys are generally better than the newer ones. I don't think Leach sells any that are "too new".

If you want, I could PM you Leach's latest list, just to get an idea.

Don't get me wrong, if I had the cash, I'd get one of the fine LNs, but that will have to wait for another stage of my life, like when the kids are out of college

Also, get some books, and Google around about setup, which you'll need no matter what you end up getting.


[QUOTE=Hesh1956] [QUOTE=burbank] Hesh,

I have a Stanley #4. I'm happy with it, so I haven't looked around for anything else for jointing plates. Had a terrible time with it until I found the sole was arched, that I didn't know how to get an edge on the iron, and that I didn't know how to set it up. Much better now!

I've bought several on ebay with good results, especially with replacement irons from Ron Hock.[/QUOTE]

Pat I can relate - I know nothing about planes and need to learn.

Since I know nothing here I am reluctant to do eBay knowing that I have no clue what I am looking at..... If I have to tune or restore it's not a good bet for me.

With this said can someone point me to a nice, friendly web site that sells something new that would work well for me and does not cost hundreds of dollars?

I Googled #11 plane and was taken to a McDonald Douglas MD-11 jumbo jet.......

Many thanks. [/QUOTE]   

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now known around here as Pat Foster
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http://www.patfosterguitars.com

My Stanley/Baily 5 1/2 bought at the flea market. It does the job very nicely.

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Anderson Guitars
Clearwater,Fl. 33755

I use a #6 stanley, I guess really a "jack plane" but at 18" it is a bit lighter then the "7 and does a great job. I got it off E-bay for about $30. An hour of tuning and it makes a great shaving, .0015" thick. Even the original blade was fine once I worked it, but I did replace it with a Hock.   If you get one of e-bay, just remember to get a plane without the original decals and the perfect box, those cost hundreds, the users are common. Stay out of a bidding war and you can get a great plane cheap.   I got a #4 for $25 that is in great condition also. Both of mine are 95+% japaning and no cracks in the totes..
Mikemikev38852.8130208333