Official Luthiers Forum!

Ok guys, some more?

I alo joined the awesome red cedar top that Shane had brought me during his visit, the grain is really tight and it sounds great when i tap tone it, Ain't that just gorgeous?





A little negative note, my side cracked at the shoulder, might be my mold that is a bit too tight or my side wasn't bent enough, a 4" long crack that i tried to fix with epoxy mixed with EIR dust, i can still see the light through the epoxy so if you have suggestions on how to fix this, please post it because even the 3 clamps i have used were not enough to close the crack tight.







Protecting my wood with liquid shellac made the grain pop out and it looked really good, the pics don't really reflect it well though







This is what i'm gonna use as purfling/bunding, the purf is roping and the binding will be purple heart that my bud Alain has cut and gave me!



The box is officially closed YAAYYYYYYY! NOPE, This baby is not leaving my shop, i tied it to the go bar deck for a second night!



A last look at my baby before exiting the shop, what a day it was, i just can't wait for tomorrow morning to unwrap it all and see the result, so more pics tomorrow night folks!



Sorry for those with dial up, i hope it wasn't too much pics!

Thanks for watchin'

Serge

Lookin good, Serge!

Bummer about that cracked side. I had the exact same crack in the exact same place on mine (mine was actually longer) when my mold flexed with the rim in it. (Mold is fixed now. That'll never happen again... ) Mine repaired easily with some hide glue and looks great. I mean, I know exactly where the crack was and I can't find it!

Now, after you've already got epoxy in the joint, I have no idea. Hopefully someone else will? But I definitely recommend HHG for these repairs in the future. If it was a clean crack in the side, seems to me all you want to do is close the crack up as non-invasively as possible. Definitely without admitting anything else into the crack (like the wood dust). I took several dry runs clamping mine before gluing it to make sure I could get a good tight joint with the glue.

Good luck on the repair!westex9338858.9461689815

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Wes McMillian
Santo, TX
http://www.wesmcmillian.com

Looking good, Serge.   I haven't had a crack yet so I can't help with that.

Ron

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OLD MAN formerly (and formally) known as:

Ron Wisdom

Somewhere in the middle of Arkansas......

Serge,

I had a similar problem with a cocobolo back set. I had already joined the back plates and cut the back to its approximate dimensions, but hand't braced the back yet. Try as I might, I couldn't get it to close. I filled the crack with thick CA, sanded it down, and it didn't show unless I held it up to a light. The crack blended in perfectly with the grain. I figured nobody would know it was there unless they put a light inside the guitar, so I didn't worry about it. I figure you can get away with the same thing. Once you've finished filling the crack and sanding it down, it won't be visible, I'll bet.

Best,

Michael

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Live to Play, Play to Live

Serge,

I did have a crack in my bending experiance (1st timer)...the Sapele I used was very easily fixed with some titebond rubbed into the cracked area.

I wetted the area with some water and rubbed in the titebond. Then clamped accordingly from either edge to squeeze the joint shut. I got this method by one of Martin's employees while back home in Naz.

Only one prob...this method can fill the wood pores with a watery glue such that pore filling later on may be a problem if a colored filler is used. The worse case is a faint discoloration around the repair.

Keep going...you're still way ahead of me...I'm still tap tone tuning. I'll hopefully have the box closed up next weekend.

Looking good!!
JP

Thanks everyone, i don't know why i did not go with HHG or Titebond in the first place, might be that i was thinking that epoxy would be easier to work with EIR dust, i'm sure i can fix it with Titebond but even with those 3 clamps, it wouldn't shut tight, i'll have to check this out thoroughly tomorrow morning tho.

Thanks guys, i'll keep you updated on how it goes!

Serge

thats gnarly serge , and i thought you just posted for a living. you rock!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks Matt! Man, i'd be a millionaire if it were the case !

Hi Serge

Well done my friend, on the crack HHG is probably your best choice, or CA maybe I don't use the stuff so someone with some experience of CA could purhaps advise on it's suitability, you want something that will go into the crack.

If the Crack won't close it is probably the side braces stopping it as Carlton suggests in your other thread.

A heated Pallette knife worked gently behind the braces should remove them, close the crack, once set glue on new braces using magnets either side for clamping pressure. It would be worth getting the opinion of Evan, Michael or one of the other experienced repair guys, as I'm sure they do crack repair like this often so may have a better method.


I'm sure Shanes probably told you already, but watch the dust from that WRC top when you sand it.

Hopefully your crack situation is only a minor obstacle or set back. Keep on truckin`!

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Give me 50 cents worth of regular.
Check my oil too, if you don`t mind,,,

Nice work Serge. Good luch with the crack.

Ross

Thanks Russ, Coe and Ross,

Russell, good idea, i'm gonna send a PM to Evan, he probably saw this thousands of times so there is surely an easy way to do this and he will probably advise me to use the heated palette knife like you said.

Thanks also for the advise wit red cedar!

Thanks bud

SergeSerge Poirier38859.4252199074

Looking very good my friend! That's just awesome... Have you managed to clone yourself to post and build at the same time?...    I can see it now... The evil Bear clone...

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I'd like to be able to prove, just for once, that money wouldn't make me happy...

Al, that's just too good, i think i'm gonna save it for when i have slow moments to remind me of this great week end where i ran the pic Marathon!

Serge