Official Luthiers Forum!

I know a lot of people swear by Titebond glue but what about Elmers. Titebond does not seem to dry hard it always seems to be a little rubbery if thats the right word. Elmers dries harder I feel. Why do people swear by Titebond? I like to hear the reasons people think Titebond is better. Or is there a another wood glue that you may think is better? Let me hear your opinions

hide glue is my favorite.

LMI glue is my least favorite.

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John Mayes
http://www.mayesluthier.com

Like John, Hide is my favorite but I'm not good enough to use it in all places of the guitar. For those places that take more time, I use titebond. It's just what I use and it works well so there's no need to change the system.
Also like John, I can't stand LMI white glue. I've had it let go in places where there is not stress at all (binding) and I really hate the white film it leaves when you clean it up. Just not impressed.

I use Hide Glue for Bracing, Plate Joining and Bridges

Titebond for everything else.

Titebond most everywhere (CA and Epoxy and Polyurethane where appropriate), and I find it dries pretty darn hard/crystalline. Much, much better than any of the other commonly available woodworking glues here.

I've got 3 lbs of Hide awaiting more extensive testing and use, though...

Of the aliphatic resin glues, I prefer Titebond for a couple of reasons: I've had good results with it (no failures yet), and I like the color. I have some LMI white glue that gets used seldom, mostly because it tends to take on a grayish cast when dry, and no matter how tight I get my seams, they show more when I use the LMI stuff than when I use Titebond, which dries to a yellowish-beige color. Since I'm using it on wood, the Titebond's seams are much less noticeable.

Also, I tried a little inexact experiment. I squeezed out equal portions of LMI and Titebond onto a piece of wax paper and let them cure for a day. Then I peeled them off the wax paper and snapped them in two, attempting to gauge just by feel which was stiffer. I could detect no real difference.

Granted, hide glue is superior in this department, but the stuff I have sets up so fast (250-something gram weight or however it is they measure it), that by the time I've brushed it on a piece, it's begun to set up before I can get it set into place and clamped. It's also a real PITA when I try to clean up squeeze-out.

Best,

Michael

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Live to Play, Play to Live

If you are going to use Elmers', make sure that you use the right one. They make a "carpenter's glue", which is yellow, and they make one that's called "Probond" wood glue. The Probond is the right stuff! This is really good glue, I like it a lot better than Titebond. I use hide glue for most things, but when I reach for a yellow glue, it's the Probond.

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Mark Swanson
Swanson Guitars
http://www.MarkSwansonMusic.com

I've just started using Hide Glue and love it.It takes longer to use but the results are excellant.I still like Titebond for some things just because I'm not quite quick enough before HHG starts to gell. I've never tried Elmers probond yet. So far I've had no problems with LMI white but haven't used it enough for a good comparison.

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Anderson Guitars
Clearwater,Fl. 33755

Titebond I, II, or III?

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Billy Dean Thomas
Covina, CA

"Multi famam, conscientiam, pauci verentur."
(Many fear their reputation, few their conscience)

Billy

Titebond I

I've heard many a story about the creep factor of the bigger Titebond numbers. Original's the only one to be using on guitars.

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Bob Garrish
Former Canonized Purveyor of Fine CNC Luthier Services

Hey Mark thats what I have the Probond Elmers. I like it. But I thought I was making a mistake cause everyone on every site swears by Titebond.... Mike

   HHG on everything except back and top to rims. Not quick enough for that yet. But I would if I could. HHG, learn it, live it, love it...   No other glue has HHG's track record.

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I'd like to be able to prove, just for once, that money wouldn't make me happy...

[QUOTE=Billy T] Titebond I, II, or III?[/QUOTE]

II for laminations, it has the highest heat resistance of the lot (bending purfling on a pipe). III is practically water-proof but never hardens.

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I'd like to be able to prove, just for once, that money wouldn't make me happy...

[QUOTE=Bob Garrish]I've heard many a story about the creep factor of the bigger Titebond numbers. Original's the only one to be using on guitars. [/QUOTE]
Yes! This is what I've heard. II is a little squishy. I've heard nothing about III.Billy T38866.1438773148

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Billy Dean Thomas
Covina, CA

"Multi famam, conscientiam, pauci verentur."
(Many fear their reputation, few their conscience)

[QUOTE=Hesh1956] In short order with three completed guitars in my fridge it was not working for me so I switched to Titebond.....

[/QUOTE]

Hesh,

so you make the guitars in the bathroom and then keep them in the fridge - love it

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Dave White
De Faoite Stringed Instruments
". . . the one thing a machine just can't do is give you character and personalities and sometimes that comes with flaws, but it always comes with humanity" Monty Don talking about hand weaving, "Mastercrafts", Weaving, BBC March 2010

Next thing Hesh, try the toaster!

OR unthaw in the micro-wellenoffen after it's been in the kullschrank! Serge Poirier38866.3879513889

I use LMI white glue and have never had a problem, and I prefer it to titebond, which I have also used. Hide glue is the best, but until I develop better preparation and speed, I can't use it on everything. I need to get one of those food heating trays to keep things warm until I am ready to glue, that would help.

Jeff

[QUOTE=Billy T] Titebond I, II, or III?[/QUOTE]

II and III definitely stay a little bit "elastic" and don't harden like I. III has a longer open time though, which is good for other projects that don't need the "hardness."

Mike

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Mike

"The Dude abides. I don't know about you but I take comfort in that. It's good knowin' he's out there. The Dude. Takin' 'er easy for all us sinners. Shoosh." The Stranger

    I use hide glue where applicable, but most of my joints are glued with LMI's white glue. I've used it on more than 250 guitars without a joint failure. It's important to keep using only the fresh glue (6 months or younger), but that really applies to all glues.

   Whether it's Titebond, Probond or any of the other alaphatic resin glues, it will not work if it is too old. I thrown them out or drop them to my kids' general use or craft drawer when they exceed their shelf life or if I'm not sure. These glues give a pretty good indication of their freshness by smell. They actually go bad and the smell changes when they do.


I have used Elmer's Probond with great results in the past, too, but have never been a huge fan of Titebond since it dries a little softer and more flexible.

Regards,
Kevin Gallagher/Omega Guitars

   Kevin Gallagher38867.0004282407

[QUOTE=Serge Poirier] OR unthaw in the micro-wellenoffen after it's been in the kullschrank! [/QUOTE]
Serge, you're still using a kullschrank?! I've heard that most luthiers have switched to the reezafratsis for its superior temperature control, especially with the optional bessoolmanator.

Muchos gracias por el tipo Signor Carlton!