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Hi all,

I was wondering what glue to use for an EIR back seam?
And (2) I noticed little white chalky looking streaks that are in some of the pores in the EIR sides i'm using,and they won't sand away.I have a ways to go for side thicknessing though.I wiped with naptha and they seemed to dissapear until the naptha dried.Any help or recommendations would be great.I couldn't get a detailed pic from my camera.
Thanks
Tim

Titebond...

Those are mineral streaks. A black fine tip sharpie marker will take care of them right before you go to finish. (seriously).'

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Brock Poling
Columbus, Ohio
http://www.polingguitars.com

Thanks Brock and Hesh,
Actually this is my second guitar started,my first will have to wait for a fix,My neck joint went from bad to worse.So I will move on and get back to #1 in the future.
Sharpie it is.And I will eventually go to HHG when I'm a little more experienced.I appreciate your help,Also I really like everyones work here on the OLF.
I think I'm gonna start posting progress pics of this build.
thanks guys for the quick reply.
Tim

You guys might all think I'm nuts but I use CA for the back joint on all my classical guitars. I learned this from David Schramm's Online Apprentice course and it works awesome. He has been dong this professionally for years and also recommends it for this joint. I'm not sure how it would work for SS, but it's great for classical, especially if you have multiple purfling lines to join.

Cheers!

John

I agree with John, CA works great for the back joint and you don't have any down time waiting for the glue to dry.

What Brock said

Mike
White Oak, Texas

I use the CA on the backs also. I use thin.
john hall
blues creek guitars

[QUOTE=Hesh1956] Robbie the thin CA or medium? If it's the thin CA then you join the plates in place and wick it in? No tent method with the thin stuff but how about the medium stuff?[/QUOTE]

I use the thick stuff. I apply it to one edge of a back plate and then glue the decorative center strip to it. Then I glue the the other back plate to it.

Tim, HHG on no 2 here and i don't regret switching quickly to it, i also used it on the backstrip joint also and HHG is more forgiving than we might think! Just a clean rag and hot water! or heat if you have to unglue.

I'm currently building with EIR on no 2 and had the same neck problems as you on no 1 so i can relate bud.

Good luck!

Serge

Thanks for all the responses,
well I have alot more options than I thought(see sig. line ) First time Using EIR And only my 2nd back joint,All went well with the 1st top and back using titebond.I HAve thick and thin USA Gold I believe,Titebond original also.Thanks for all the suggestions,I'm not sure I'm fast enough for CA glue,I'd have to practice a few times with scrap..
I'm sure I'll have more questions,you guys have been great
Thanks again,
Tim

I just used CA this weekend for the 1st time on a EIR back to join it with a walnut center strip. I clamped it up nice and tight, wicked in the super thin CA (hotstuff) and waited a couple minutes. Unclamped it, and solid as a rock! Went back over the seam on the inside of the back with more CA to cover any missed spots, and it gets covered by the back graft.

I recommend trying it.

Jeff

Titebond, HHG, CA. I think the most important aspect is to have a nice, quasi-light-proof joint and you'll be o.k.

I definitely have to try that CA, though. Very interesting. I know I love it for quick repairs. I glued up some EIR binding that had cracked and had them back on the pipe about 5 minutes later. 10 seconds? No. But a few minutes will do it.

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I'd like to be able to prove, just for once, that money wouldn't make me happy...

So..... those of you who use the CA to glue up the backs, what do you use for the top wood? CA as well or HHG, AR, ABC. .......?

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I always use HHG to join plates, I know that that glue joint could last 300+ years but I don't have the same data for CA (and I don't like the fumes).

A couple of days ago I joined a WRC top using HHG (new batch courtesy of Russell) and the tent method and the whole operation, including shooting the edge must have only taken 10 minutes. The thing with the tent method, when you have taped up one side flipped it over into the tent shape you can use the opposite side as a guide to run the nozzle of your HHG glue bottle along, makes it quick and accurate. Close the joint, add the back tape, job done, go make a cup of tea.

Colin

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I don't believe in anything, I simply make use of a set of reasonable working hypotheses.

[QUOTE=John Elshaw] You guys might all think I'm nuts but I use CA for the back joint on all my classical guitars. I learned this from David Schramm's Online Apprentice course and it works awesome. He has been dong this professionally for years and also recommends it for this joint. I'm not sure how it would work for SS, but it's great for classical, especially if you have multiple purfling lines to join.

Cheers!

John[/QUOTE]

Works, great on SS too. Larrivee's have been done this way since the beginning, and don't even have back strips.

I use thin and wick it in. Make sure the back is well-jointed.

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Jim Kirby
kirby@udel.edu

[QUOTE=Colin S] I always use HHG to join plates, I know that that glue joint could last 300+ years but I don't have the same data for CA (and I don't like the fumes).[/QUOTE] For what it's worth, I was chatting with somebody in another forum who turned out to be a chemist for one of the big CA producers. He made specialty products on demand for specific applications - medical, etc., so I kind of trust his knowledge, though he is unknown to me. Anyway, I asked about the longevity question, and he said there was no real concern there. In our application his concern was what you might expect - the ability to reverse and reglue a joint, which is where HHG shines.