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Just wondering, what's the best way to fill small minute gaps between the binding and the sides. It appears that the binding was not seated completely or maybe the router bit was slightly skewed when I cut the channel but there are a few spots where this a gap of about .001". By the way, it's ivoroid binding and EI rosewood sides. I thought about trying force in some rosewood sawdust and flooding in some CA, but I'm afraid that it will leave a noticeably darker line that probably stands out just as much as the gap itself. I heard someone talking about using an ivoroid paste to melt the binding and wedge together and thought maybe this would be the way to go. How much (and what mixing ratio) ivoroid chips and acetone needs to be mixed to create this "paste"? Any ideas?

I would use CA and dust as you say. I would rather have a dark line than a gap. It probably won't be very noticable.

Jeremiah, here is what I do which has given me better results,

I use the FCA Binding Adhesive from LMI, put some in one of my small bottles with the fine tip dispenser. I sand the side a little getting some dust on the surface, run a fine bead of this in the gap, brush some of the dust over to the gap and then just start sanding beside, over, etc. etc.

Results, no dark line like CA, for me it has dried the actual wood color and I cannot tell a crack every existed in the first place.

Mike
White Oak, Texas

I filled some gaps between the purfling and the binding in my latest by using a knife to cut some shavings from some scrap binding. The shavings have to be wedge shaped when viewed end on, thicker along one edge. These are fitted dry into the gaps using forcepts and a magnifier, once they are seated I put a thin bead of titebond around the bit that's sticking out, and wiggle the shaving a little using the forcepts so I get some glue into the gap. Then just sand it down when dry. It's an invisible repair.

Ok, so you've got gaps in a different place but it should still work, you could cut shavings off a bit of scrap side.

Mike's technique sounds good. Another option - esp with a very small gap as you describe - is just to fill it with straight CA (no dust). It dries clear, of course, but since it's dark down in that gap, it will blend in surprisingly well with the dark wood. After the finish is on, it will be _very_ hard to find where those gaps were. They're as good as gone.

_________________
Todd Rose
Ithaca, NY

https://www.dreamingrosesecobnb.com/todds-art-music

https://www.facebook.com/ToddRoseGuitars/

[QUOTE=JeremiahB.]   How much (and what mixing ratio) ivoroid chips and acetone needs to be mixed to create this "paste"? Any ideas? [/QUOTE]

Just cover the chips with a little acetone and seal the container until dissolved. Mix and allow the excess acetone to vent off, you will see when things are OK, if the mix gets to thick, just add a little more acetone, the repair should be invisible, at least it was when I used black bindings.

Cheers

Kim

I like using expoy and dust. I like, even better, not having to mess with
the gaps.. it's all about prep...

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John Mayes
http://www.mayesluthier.com

I used dust and CA on mine but John's trick sounds really good!Serge Poirier38879.0878009259

[QUOTE=Serge Poirier] I used dust and CA on mine but John's trick
sounds really good![/QUOTE]

The good thing about using epoxy and dust is that epoxy is not nearly as
penetrating as thin CA, and it does not darken the dust as much as CA
does.John Mayes38880.0504050926

_________________
John Mayes
http://www.mayesluthier.com

Thanks John, i will definitely have to get me some since the finishing of the box is getting closer by the minute now!

John,

When using epoxy and dust do you mix the two together then put it in the gaps? or dust in the gap followed by epoxy...or epoxy followed by dust?

Thanks,
Greg

_________________
Gwaltney Guitars

[QUOTE=Serge Poirier] I used dust and CA on mine but John's trick sounds really good![/QUOTE]

That's no trick Serge, that's CLASS!

_________________
http://www.presnallguitars.com

[QUOTE=GregG] John,

When using epoxy and dust do you mix the two together then put it in
the gaps? or dust in the gap followed by epoxy...or epoxy followed by
dust?

Thanks,
Greg[/QUOTE]

I mix the the two together first and then work it into the gap.

_________________
John Mayes
http://www.mayesluthier.com

I just love this place! Thanks John!

Hi Larry!

Toddstock,

I first tried the FCA when using Ivoroid type binding to wood. It worked really well and is thick enough to control in the binding channel. I bound in sections at a time say 8-10" and use the binding tape to hold in place. Sticks really well, and dries pretty fast, but also gives you enough time for placement and taping, also minimal fumes or smell which I liked. Once I had used it here I started trying it in other applications, I use it now on all bindings & purflings, glueing in fret dots and markers and of course gap filing. I had tried other adhesives in the gap filing process but kept getting to much discoloration in the areas of application and was not safisfied. May have been my technique, I tried the FCA and was pleased with the results.

I am ordering another bottle with my next LMI order and would recommend it for a variety of things as listed above. Hope this was helpful

Mike
White Oak, Texas

Mike, FCA sounds good too, me thinks that CA will be banned from my shop if everyone keeps coming with good tips like that!

Thanks

I have a question? Since the solvent in CA is an acetone base, wont CA melt the ivroid?

Fresh CA will melt the surface of ivoroid slightly, which helps bonding.

Here is the little write up that LMI has on their product descriptions, this is the first item under their "Adhesive" section. Wanted to share this also to address in respect to its affect on plastic bindings and the like.


Binding Adhesives
Our FCA, an industry standard used my many large American factories, is finally available to the small shop user. In the factory environment, it reduced the time the binding had to be bound up to 24 hours! Steve Helgeson of Moonstone Guitars says it has fast tack, sets up quickly and produces fewer fumes than other products he’s used. Frank Ford was also very enthusiastic about it. This product was developed using it in combination with 14 different woods and 28 different plastics and it worked well with all. This means you can use it on oilier woods like Cocobolo with good adhesion. From the LMI Web site.

Mike
White Oak, Texas