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Hey guys and gals I have a question for you on a repair job. I have been brought an Ovation to repair. There are two cracks in the top both running with the grain. The first dead on the centerline from the butt to within an inch of the bridge (by the way this is on a 1986 Ovation Celebrity I was told it was a Balladeer but it is not) there is no bridge plate and this crack is entirely clear of any braces. This crack has risen about 1/256 proud. There is almost no separation or gaping. The second crack is about 1-1/2” from the lower bout on the treble side also running with the grain and just as about as long as the first. But this on has risen 1/128 proud and does run across a brace. There is no gap here either. I believe that when pulled level the cracks will re-seat with each other. I intend to graft the inside with spruce and titebond, and believe that I can wick CA from the outside. There is no crack or breakage in the brace that the one crack runs across but there is a small amount of separation between the brace and the top directly under the crack that will have to be re-glued

I guess my question is, is there something I am missing in my approach to this repair. I have not done but a couple of crack repairs and none that looked near as easy as this. That scares me.

I'd use hide glue or titebond instead of CA... there should be access to the interior from the back, no? Personally, I'd glue the crack before the graft. Geting it level should be no problem if you have interior access, or use some magnets. Spend a bit of time making sure you worked the glue in enough if its still tight. Frank Ford's site should be a help for this.

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Access will be through the sound hole. There is no back bracing so lot of room to work. I am going to use a screw-jack system I have made for attaching the grafts. I have to make an alteration to it to work on the deep dome of this ovation

Many ovations have an access panel built into the back to facillitate for electronic work and such...

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[QUOTE=jfrench] Many ovations have an access panel built into the back to facillitate for electronic work and such...[/QUOTE]
no such luck with this one. but it is the deep dish a lot of room to work in.

I worked on an Ovation that had similar issues (and many more). Mine did not have an access panel either. CA will probably leave a dark line. I use(d) white glue for longer working time. I have also used West System epoxy. Use the slow drying hardener (207) and it can be very fluid. I put tape on the inside so it does not drip everywhere. It dries almost clear.

If you need magnets, I bought mine online at
http://www.rare-earth-magnets.com/

Very, very powerful. Check FRETS.com for additional help.

Good Luck.

[QUOTE=BobPittman] I worked on an Ovation that had similar issues (and many more). Mine did not have an access panel either. CA will probably leave a dark line. I use(d) white glue for longer working time. I have also used West System epoxy. Use the slow drying hardener (207) and it can be very fluid. I put tape on the inside so it does not drip everywhere. It dries almost clear.

If you need magnets, I bought mine online at
http://www.rare-earth-magnets.com/

Very, very powerful. Check FRETS.com for additional help.

Good Luck.[/QUOTE] Bob Please check my post titled "80's Ovation electronics package". maybe you can help on this question as well

Are the cracks all the way through the top? These guitars are prone to finish cracks that mimic top cracks. Sometimes you don’t know for sure until you try to glue them with water thin superglue. It will wick through the crack and you will see a wet area on the inside of the top. If the cracks are open, you can humidify the guitar for a week or so and they will probably close up. Then use the superglue. The superglue can also be used to seal the crack for a good finish repair. To line up the edges, I use plexiglass with wax paper between it and the top. You can use a plastic pipette to apply the glue, wipe off any excess, spray it with accelerator and then hold the plexi/wax paper across the crack with muscle clamps. You have to work quickly, but it works. Do a dry run first to get an idea if the edges will go down. You can then use super glue remover to take off the glue residue on the top. Test it first, but it is most likely a poly finish that will not be touched by the solvent. I’ve done literally hundreds of these crack repairs (the main reason I haven’t gotten many guitars built). If you have any other specific questions, let me know. Also, if you do humidify the guitar, be sure to tell the customer that he will have to humidify it during dry spells or the cracks will open again. No matter how many cleats you use.Neil38429.9725694444

Yea they are true top craks. It fell off a stage directly on to the arm of a chair. they will be no real big issue to fix because the wood split but was not chiped out.