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PostPosted: Thu Jun 15, 2006 12:27 am 
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Like Paul, I feel more comfortable moving the router.
I built a jig like Arnt's (which is really impressive!), but the old saying about
fool-proof" was coined for guys like me. I found a way to screw up the operation of that jig. It is inherently top-heavy, and I was able once (or twice) to let the bearings slip away from the side...the router tipped in, and made a deeper cut than wanted.

I then made a jig like the one I hope to picture here.
It came from LINT and enjoyed several incarnations. Hope this makes sense:




The design is borrowed from those armed lamps that move about on the workbench, while holding the lamp in the same plane. This jig just holds a router.

Steve

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 15, 2006 1:12 am 
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Since I'm so cheap, I made one similar to Mark Kett at Guitar Jigs which is similar to a Larravee type and the one used at Tylor. Cost me all of $5 for the wood and $25 for the bit (I had the laminate trimmer)

Works great, just have to get use to this way of using it.

Here's a link to the topic when I showed it here.

Just another way of doing things.

Rod True38883.4268865741

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 15, 2006 1:19 am 
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[QUOTE=Pwoolson] Hesh, your jig will work fine but I would invest (time and materials) in a "doughnut" so that the router will not ride up on the dome of the back/top. Basically it just allows the base to have about 1/4" to ride on.
Send me a PM if you need help making it. Chances are pretty good it could find it's way in my car on my way to Montreal. [/QUOTE] Paul, I have the same tool. It does not need a donut. It is not clear in the photo, but the base is not flat, but angled away from the bit so that it only rides on the top right up near the sides. It routs perfect rabbits of even height and square to the sides all the way around the guitar.rlabbe38883.431412037


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 15, 2006 1:21 am 
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Old Growth Brazilian
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[QUOTE=Hesh1956] Kevin I just bought a very nice jig/tool that indexes off the side and top with two bearings on the side. This is a first class piece of engineering and design and my tests indicate that it will work very well.

For me this was the only choice since I have no space and build in myh bathroom. Any and all jigs need to be something that can be stored and take little space to use.

Others here, Arnt, maybe Serge have built this jig for very little money and now get excellent results. Since I have no time and little brains I bought mine for about $200 and $20 additional for the sprial downcut bit that they recommend.

This is from www.luthiertool.com





[/QUOTE]

Hesh you wil love this rig. I just got mine a month ago.

Kevin the only complaint I have about either of the two you mentioned is that some cutaways are hard to get into using the Ribbeke. The Fleishman over comes this. For some unknown reason I prefer to use a free mounted router and that is why I bought the same one Hesh pictured


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 15, 2006 2:26 am 
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Koa
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I have the same jig as Hesh, Michael, etc. A wonderful tool, and I highly recommend it. I am going to get another one and then have 1 for cutting purfling ledge, and 1 for cutting binding ledge. A real space saver too!

Jeff


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 15, 2006 2:32 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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I actually have the luthiers tools one and the Ribiecke type...don't ask why,
but I actually like the Ribiecke type MUCH better. The other one, you must
have your guitar stationary, but also have the sides clear. This is hard to do.
Aslo if the router shifts a bit, you get an uneven cut. Both bearing have to
be on the side fo the guitar.
The Ribiecke one for me is flawless. Just put the guitar in the holder away
you go.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 15, 2006 3:27 am 
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Just my two cents worth. I used the Ribbecke style for years (since 1991).
Ribbecke's type worked well but you really have to pay attention. In the past
year I made Don Williams' jig and, at least in my opinion it is far superior to
the Ribbecke style. Using the LMI bearing set, I can literally bind a guitar
blindfolded. I made one modification - the "doughnut" (1/4" circle) I made
as part of the base and from the doughnut to the edges the piece actually
slants away from the doughnut. So, if you make a mistake the router does
not fall straight down but rather rides the ramp away from the guitar so
there can be no screwups. I think the Fleishmann system refined by Don
Williams is absolutely the finest system out there!!!!

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 15, 2006 8:48 am 
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Cocobolo
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Thanks for all the help, folks. I really appreciate it :) I'll think it over and see which I think will work best for us.



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PostPosted: Thu Jun 15, 2006 11:21 am 
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Hey Sylvan, your endorsement check is in the mail....but I've docked you a bit, I normally pay you for at LEAST twice that amount of exclamation marks...

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 15, 2006 1:44 pm 
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Don -
Just send the money!!

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 16, 2006 1:14 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Location: Changes when ever I move..Australia
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Don't know how true it is, but I have been told that Maton Guitars in Australia use a number of the Fleishman/Williams jigs in their factory. If it is true, that is a very convincing endorsement.

Cheers

Kim


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 16, 2006 2:28 am 
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Kim, it's very true. In fact, the production manager himself emailed me about getting plans for it. I referred him to Rick Micheletti for a CAD drawing of them. Rick is the guy who sells them on eBay...

I may never be well known for my guitars (even though they are world-class if I do say so myself. ) ,
but my version of Harry's jig is known & used across the globe.

I'm famous! Or is that infamous...?



Don Williams38884.6995486111

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 16, 2006 7:36 am 
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Hey Don...
Do you know his user name on ebay or have an email address for him??

Thanks Gary


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 16, 2006 7:46 am 
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rick@michelettiguitars.com

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"I want to know what kind of pickups Vince Gill uses in his Tele, because if I had those, as good of a player as I am, I'm sure I could make it sound like that.
Only badly."


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 16, 2006 12:15 pm 
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This won't surprise anyone, BUT-after building Don's jig,I wasn't sure what to do about the donut to ride the rim. Craig directed me to the UHMW flanged bearing at McMaster-Carr or MSC with part number. I have a PC 310 and had made a Lucite sub-base for it for use on the jig. I used a Forstner bit to do the counter bore, dropped it in(lam trimmer body holds it in) cut off the surplus length so that it projects below the bottom of the base about 3/16, and -Bingo, ready to go. That is just one of the fine things about this forum- the suppliers will give you the info,even when you are building something they sell. Thanks.MT


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