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I did a "quick" dry run to try attaching the back plate to the rim...and let me tell you...this is NOT a very "QUICK" task....

30 mins until I had the entire body roped...now since I'm using AR glue...I have some "extra" time for manuvering...but...jeeze...I knew that using an outside mold would probably make this clumsy...but...man o' man.

I understand that some folks are going to GO-BARs for this task...but...I really do like the concept of roping, since it applies pressure uniformally where go-bars have a concentrated area of pressure.

Any tips for roping...maybe my 2.5 inch rubber strips are too wide??? Maybe I should practice some more dry-runs....maybe I should just go make some more go bars...and a back radius dish (since I don't have a back radius dish yet).

Sorry for the rant...but...this didn't go as planned...then again lots of things don't go as planned.

Thanks again,
JP

JP,

I use the roping method and dont have too many problems. I use 2" wide
bias binding tape bought from my local sewing shop or macrame rope
bought from same shop.

The important thing is to do a dry run and make sure everything is laid
out ready. Nothing worse than ending up a rats nest because you
remembered something at the last minute. Also, looking from above the
rope should have a radial pattern centred on each bout when youve
finished roping up. See attached pic of a back rope up on a classical.

If you think roping a back is tricky wait till you use it on purfling and
binding.

Happy roping

kiwigeo38900.1657638889

I really like the way Martin has the jig laid out for the roping method...that's cool. But given a few dry runs (and you practice with any old yardsale type guitar) and it becomes more do-able. I didn't use the rope method for the back and top (used a workboard instead, which I thought was great). We did use the rope method however as a supplement for the binding/purfling. Here's a shot of the example I took so I could remember how to do it. It's using a very long roll of "thick cotton mop string". There is no doubt it works GREAT once you get the process down.

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Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines.

JP:

You know what, come to think of it, I have an easy idea that would work in conjunction with the rope method if that's the direction you'd rather go. If you're interested, PM me with your email address and I'll take a few photos sometime this morning that might help.

Bill

_________________
Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines.

Don't despair JP, i'm sure the folks will come up with just plenty of good tips on this for you! Take it easy on yourself, it's still your first after all and you sure are learning huh? Now that you have the back glued on, just wait for them tricks and use the one you feel more comfortable with for the top.

Glueing a top or a back isn't a QUICK task for a novice, even if you'd have 10-20 guitars under the belt, it is a SLOW one, you want to take every precautions there is to make sure that this is done properly. Tony Karol advised me to use fiber tape for the bindings/purflings lately but for joining a back to the rim, well stretched rubber bands is a good way, Bill's method is interesting also!

Hang on bud, it's a learning curve!

    I hate roping. Not as effective or efficinet as clampling. I can glue a guitar in about 1 min or less.
   Take a piece of 1/2 ply and trace the outline of the guitar on it. I personally used flagned garage door weather stripping but you can use old hose etc.
    This was attached to the ply. I set the top or back on and use 6-8 bar clamps. I do the blocks first then the sides. Easy and efficient with proper clamping pressure. THe rope will loosen and just isn't the best way. Too much time and if you are using hot hide glue or if you have too much squezze out you can glue the rope to the guitar.
   john hall
blues creek guitars

John,

I find with macrame rope or bias binding tape very little of the rope/tape
gets left behind glued to the guitar. Its easily removed with a scraper
anyway.

I use a clamping caul like John, but use a go-bar deck instead of clamps. The caul distributes the pressure evenly, and using it also allows me to work fairly swiftly.

-Mark

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I use a combination of spool clamps and bar clamps to fill the gaps. My set up and work board is the same as the ones above. I made up some longer spool clamps with oversized heads to get a good bite on the top or back being glued. Start with the blocks and then do the sides. Works well for me

Mike
White Oak, Texas

Thanks for the replys...I decided to take the plung and press on (with the added assurance of 1 deep throated clamp to assist at the neck block.

I ended up with 6 spools (2 at the neck block, 2 at the tail block, 1 each side of the waist).

Then I used the 2.5 inch rubber strap (care of a truck inner tube) to "rope" the rest of the body.

Finally the deep throated clamp was added to the neck block area for added pressure (since the spools clamps don't go get the whole neck block under pressure)...my spools are only ~1.5 diameter (probably needed a full 2inch diameter).

I'll send some pics of the whole thing and let ya'll know how it came out tomorrow night when i unwrap the "gift".

Additionally...I kinda liked the roping around the spools...it made keeping the "pinwheel" patters of the upper and lower bouts...so much easier. BUT...either way...next guitar...I think that I'm going to go with a go deck (just as soon as I get a back dish mold built).

Thanks again,
JP
JP

Looks like you took care of business JP, WTG! Good idea on the dish and deck, it sure will help you lots.

I think there are lots of ways to effectively do this job. To me, one of the most important factors is to be able to get inside and clean up any squeeze out. This is almost impossible when I glue the top on, but for the back I always lay the back in the radius bowl then set the sides on top of it and use a variety of clams and blocks to glue it down.

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