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OK, So I do not have room where I currently am for a bandsaw. So, not being much of a genius on saws, I assume i could use a coping saw to rough cut back, tops and sides without ripping up the wood which would be seen, or am i wrong? I know a normal handsaw, besides being too big, would tear up the wood pretty bad. I just need to get it close to final size for bending sides and getting the top and back close which I could then flush cut with the laminate trimmer and a flush cut bit. I know this is a stupid question but sadly, thats me :(

A coping saw will work. You might want to make an oversized plexiglass template and use a razor knife against it to cut out the top (keeps it from chipping).

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How did anyone make guitars before power tools were available? I think you have a great question. Just wondering whether anyone has built using nothing but hand tools.

Joe Volin

With the sole exception of a fox bender I've done it. Pwer tools are helpful, but if you use efficient methods hands tools work wonders and can do things power tools cannot.

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my first few, done many years ago, were handtools only, and the coping saw was the tool of choice for this job. make sure you use a fine blade, one with at least three or four teeth in the kerf, say 24tpi, and practice cutting curves on some scrap first. take your time, don't force the saw, and you should cut a clean smooth line.

michael mcclain

crazymanmichael38432.1547916667

Both of my lutes were built without benefit of electricity ,except in the light bulbs. Thinning of tops was done purely with plane and scraper, sanding was done with shagreen, binding channels by gramil and chisels. I'm very tempted to try this on a normal guitar it's very controlled and very satisfying and gets you much more intimately involved with the wood. I have always used the gramil before cutting any binding channels even with the router. All that power tools do really is speed up the process, if your not interested in speed try hand tools.

Colin

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I don't believe in anything, I simply make use of a set of reasonable working hypotheses.

You can do it all with hand tools. I have resawn hardwood boards with a frame saw that I made. However, I'll never ever even think of doing it again, that's about as intimate as I ever want to get with a plank. Good work-out though.

[QUOTE=Colin S] Both of my lutes were built without benefit of electricity ,except in the light bulbs. Thinning of tops was done purely with plane and scraper, sanding was done with shagreen, binding channels by gramil and chisels. I'm very tempted to try this on a normal guitar it's very controlled and very satisfying and gets you much more intimately involved with the wood. I have always used the gramil before cutting any binding channels even with the router. All that power tools do really is speed up the process, if your not interested in speed try hand tools.

Colin[/QUOTE]

OK.

I give up. What is shagreen? For that matter, a gramil? I've done woodworking (using primarily handtools) for many years but I confess that you have me stumped.

Thanks, Steve Brown

I used a coping saw for the top and back cutouts on my first guitar (then
again my first guitar sucked a donkey toe)

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John Mayes
http://www.mayesluthier.com

I was on a train ride to the top of Pike's Peak and the lady on the PA system said that we should feel free to ask any questions. They used to say that there was no such thing as a dumb question but then somebody asked, "How far apart are the mile markers"?

I used a jigsaw for my first, oh, 20-30 guitars or so.

My first guitar is still my main axe; first borns can be killer!

Steel Template (plexglass will work). I have actual size templates and 1/8" oversize templates for this task, cut with a good sharp shop knife can be done with a stiff razor knife but wears out razor blade pretty quick. It wears out knife edge as well, but I strop often to keep the edge keen I have also use both a cope-saw and a jig-saw but I like the shop knife. take your time

Steve,

I think a lot of people round here use gramils, they are also known as purfling (groove) cutters, and are adjustable blades fitted to a handle with a guide that indexes on the side of the guitar and are used to make a clean cut around the guitar top or side, then when routing or chiselling the channel, there is less chance of damaging the top. Most luthiers suppliers sell them.

Shagreen is dried shark skin. it has been used for centuries maybe even millenia as a sandpaper, certainly by the great Cremonese instrument makers. The surface is covered with papillae, small pseudoteeth, that are highly abrasive. I, in fact, used skin from Spotted Bull Huss for my course sanding and from Spur Dogfish for fine sanding, both small members of the shark family.

ColinColin S38432.4194791667

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I don't believe in anything, I simply make use of a set of reasonable working hypotheses.

I was all wound up for a stupid question and this is all I get? Using power tools to cut the top and back can be kind of exciting. Lots of potential for splitting. Coping saw is a good choice.

I recently got one of the Ibex purfling cutters and it's very nice.

I'll probably get expelled from the forum for saying this, but I used my belt sander to trim my last top and back. I've had a few heart stopping tearouts on the bandsaw in the past, though nothing catastrophic.