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[QUOTE=Dave Rector] Oh yeah, forgot to mention, I forgot to drill that hole once myself. Went to Ace hdwr and picked up a long drill bit and managed to drill it from the neck mortise.
So don't panic, it's still do-able.[/QUOTE]
That answers my question on how to do it. Recall what sized bit you used? Wish the instructions mentioned this step!

On the Truss rod one, I'm not so sure you do need a hole in the brace, looking at your picture, I would say as long as you have a hole in the neck block you can get to it, that said, if you do feel confident to make a hole it will make access with the strings at tension possible.

[QUOTE=Hesh1956] You know another thought that I have is when I look at your picture of the neck from the front showing the rod, bolts etc. I see marks on the top of the tenon just under the fretboard. When I look at your top from the bracing point of view your popsickle brack looks high and thick to me.

Is the tenon hitting the popsickle brace and being prevented from seating the neck? Maybe smear something on the popsickle brace, insert the neck and see if the something is now on the tenon?[/QUOTE]

Hesh,

I thought it was a little thick myself, but nowhere was it said it needed to be thinned. However, is it even possible for the tennon to hit that brace? The brace is inside the guitar, and the tennon is outside, seperated by the neck block? I'm probably wrong on this though.

On your Washer question they are not needed unless you have to drill out the holes, then Paul was talking about them as a precutionary measure to ensure the nuts had plenty to bite on to.

Given that your truss rod is inside the tennon it can't be coming through and catching the popsicle brace, I would investigate the bolts first and also measure the tennon and the tenoon pocket to compare.

*Edit*

Sorry Hesh hadn't seen your post when I posted.RussellR38912.4551736111

[QUOTE=Hesh1956] Nope your right and I am wrong, good thinking on your part, please disregard my last idiotic idea......

But don't disregard my previous idiotic ideas until you check it out please [/QUOTE]

No idea is idiotic to me at this stage of my guitar-building inadequacies! Your previous idiotic idea will be investigated fully.

Thanks very much for all your assistance! I hope one day to be able to offer assistance instead of just asking for it.

Cheers,
Mark

I'm not the expert here, but you don't need a hole in that brace. There is a trus rod adjustment tool shaped like the letter "G". You see them included with new Larivee guitars (Lowdens too, I think). Anyway, if you can find one of those, or buy one from a local Larrivee dealer, your truss rod problem is solved without resorting to drilling.

Also, there are allen heads that are designed to work at a slight angle. These will work, too.

_________________
Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines.

[QUOTE=Bill Greene] I'm not the expert here, but you don't need a hole in that brace. There is a trus rod adjustment tool shaped like the letter "G". You see them included with new Larivee guitars (Lowdens too, I think). Anyway, if you can find one of those, or buy one from a local Larrivee dealer, your truss rod problem is solved without resorting to drilling.

Also, there are allen heads that are designed to work at a slight angle. These will work, too.[/QUOTE]

Well, since I happen to have a Larrivee, and their truss rod tool, I will try it to see if it will work. I would like not to have to drill that hole!

At the risk of adding another idiotic remark (sorry Hesh, I'm just trying to
take the heat off by adding my own idiotic remark), if you find you have
to drill a hole through the brace, couldn't you just drill it from the outside
through the relief in the neck block, into the brace with a backing block
held inside the sound hole? Just a thought.
Craig S.

I, for one, NEVER torque a truss rod with the strings under full tension - you are asking it to overcome the neck wood and the strings if you do this. I have my truss rods adjust thru the soundhole, but no hole in the upper transverse brace. I take the supplied Allied rod adjuster key, and grind off about an inch, such that the key will stand up inside the uper bout of the guitar - now you can reach in and insert the key into the truss rod end, yes, its a little finicky, but you HAVE to loosen the strings to do this. The double acting rods can snap if you use too much force, because they act twice as fast as a std rod does due to the reverse threading at the other end (actually is left hand at the adjustment end, right hand at the welded closed end). Much more than 1/4 turn of these type rods is ever required.

Doing it this way keeps folks who dont know what they are doing from breaking truss rods, or overtightening them because they should be tight dont you know !!! these are usually the same folks who simply tighten up the nut on an output jack purely from the outside, twisting the internal wiring as they go until it breaks, then they think everything from the pots are broke to the PUs are done is whats wrong with it - ask me how I know !!!

_________________
Tony Karol
www.karol-guitars.com
"let my passion .. fulfill yours"

[QUOTE=Hesh1956]
From looking at your pics I think now that the bolts are binding in the holes and you simply need to elongate the holes either up or down as needed.



[/QUOTE]
Hesh,

Quite right you were. I took a small round file to the holes in the neck block, and elongated them (towards the top of the guitar) making them almost oval shaped. But, a little filing and the neck fit snug and tight again. It took a couple tries as I didn't want to over do it, but I've overcome that problem. Now about getting a hole in the brace so I can access my truss rod...

Thanks to all who helped. Your assistance is greatly appreciated.

As to scalloping that heal. I put my neck in a vice and use a dremel. It's very controlable and very easy.

[QUOTE=Hesh1956] Ronn I do the same thing. What bit do you use?[/QUOTE]

Hesh I use a little 3/32" round cutting bit.