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Dave, I was only going to copy the pin part of Doolin's bridge. The bolt idea was if the Doolin pin idea wouldn't work for some reason.

If I do make a bridge like Mike's it would definately not be a direct copy. Mike's a nice guy and I have a lot of respect for all his innovations.

Do you think either of these ideas have merit? I am wondering what the effect of eithe would have on the tone of the instrument.

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Dave Rector
Rector Guitars

Dave,

Having lots of bolts and other re-enforcing bits I suspect can't be good for the tone - just think of the number of bolted old Gibson bridges that have been replaced with dramatic effect on tone. If it were me, I'd use a 6 hole pinned like Howards or one like Mikes. If your client was so fussy, wouldn't they be asking you to make it with an armadillo shell back too

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Dave White
De Faoite Stringed Instruments
". . . the one thing a machine just can't do is give you character and personalities and sometimes that comes with flaws, but it always comes with humanity" Monty Don talking about hand weaving, "Mastercrafts", Weaving, BBC March 2010

[QUOTE=Dave White] If your client was so fussy, wouldn't they be asking you to make it with an armadillo shell back too [/QUOTE]

Don't say that very loud Dave you might give him ideas.

Yeah, I really like Howard's design, may try to talk him into that.

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Dave Rector
Rector Guitars

Bump.

Just wanted to get all the comments I could on this.

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Dave Rector
Rector Guitars

Bump.

Me too Dave!

Thanks buddy!

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Dave Rector
Rector Guitars

No prob Dave!

Come on you 12 strings fellows, anything else to add, the list of questions posted above was meant to get more answers! Don't be shy now!

Hi Dave,
        I too have started a 12 string project ,so have been checking this thread.
I can only offer what I have picked up during my research , not what others have to offer by way of experience.
I am keeping to my six string back and sides thickness like Paul W suggests . My braces will be 3/4" X 5/16 " for the Xbraces and I'm not game enough to scallop them.
I put two carbon fibre rods 4m.m. either side of the trussrod . Mine are 1/8 " X 3/8" . I think this is a stonger option than the 1/4 X 1/4".

My headstock ended up to be 8 inches. I'm using Gotoh's which are 15/16 ". , so I left an inch between posts . 1 11/16" from the nut to the first tuners . It leaves around 1 5/16 " for the headstock crest. ( Gotoh mini's of course)

I'm also putting a third lower tone bar brace on the soundboard . My neck joint is the Cumpiano barrel and bolt system with the A frame bracing and F/B extension bolt down .

Hope this helps Dave ,and I look forward to other more experienced 12 string builders chiming in

Regards , KiwiKiwiCraig38921.8612384259

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CRAIG LAWRENCE of AUSTRALIA
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I tend to make the top about 10% thicker on 12s than on a six, and the bracing about 10% taller. I've also added a third tone bar on them, although it's usually pretty small by the time all the 'tuning' is done. All the 12s I've made so far have been 12-fret necks on a 17" Jumbo body with a cutaway. Maybe they're overbuilt, but I do sleep well o'nights, and have never felt I needed more bass.

Your customer may regret the 1-3/4" nut: I'd try to talk him into a full 2". you need to have some space between those strings within the courses. If it's too wide you can always cut the nut slots over toward the treble side; thumb over on a 12 is sort of hard anyway.

Do intonate all the strings seperately. I use a wide saddle, say 3/16" or 7/32", and file it so that there are two ridges along the length. Then I file a notch in the one the string is not supposed to touch. It's neat looking, and works well. It's really nice to have all the notes in tune in the upper register.

Oh yeah: bridge bolts: don't! I used to do a lot of repairs, and bolts are always a problem. Basically, they concentrate the stress in a small area, so that you get a lot of top distortion around the bolts as the bridge moves. Since all bridges _do_ move eventually, the bolted ones end up being much harder to repair, and don't seem to hold up as well as properly designed glued down bridges. Just make the bridge wider, as you must anyway to acommodate the extra row of pins or whatever, and see that you do a really good job of gluing it down. And _don't_ have the strings more than 1/2" off the top!

Thanks for the great information Craig and Alan, file saved!

Many thanks Alan . Just the sort of info needed . Your experience is really appreciated .

Also thanks for all the other posts you contribute !

Regards ,Kiwi

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CRAIG LAWRENCE of AUSTRALIA
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Thanks ALan and Craig! Every little bit of info helps.

Alan, do you have a pic of the saddle with the ridges in it? I think I understand, but would really appreciate a pic or two to make sure my brain isn't playing tricks on me....again.

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Dave Rector
Rector Guitars