Official Luthiers Forum!

Hey all,

I'm curious what you all think of the new LMI yellow glue? I've always used the old white LMI product and really liked it. So far, I can't say I'm crazy about this new stuff. Seems like the old glue had a longer open time, and so cleanup was easier. Plus, I thought the old glue dried nearly clear and this stuff is YELLOW!

What's everybody using now?


Chris-

Titebond OG, hide glue for bridges, sometimes for bracing on our top brand.

Most likely some type of PVA, I used their glue for a while and it worked great.

Currently however I'm using only Hide Glue for the guitar assembly (Fresh Mix, and Old Brown Glue which has a long set time). Hide glue doesn't creep, it soaks into the fibers better and the strength is fantastic (plus cleanup is easy). The only exception is that I use CA for rosettes and bindings, I get mine from the Hobby Store in Thin and Thick, the thin wicks into the joint making a strong bond, and the thick will fill in gaps. Plus is does not stain the wood in my experience.

I've been determined to use and many old techniques as I can in my building, I have a CNC for instance, but I only use it for jigs, everything else I try to do by hand...

-Paul-

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-Paul-

Patriot Guitars

My experience with the new yellow glue compared to the old white glue has been the same as yours. Shorter open time, squeeze out doesn't clean up as easily, and the thing I dislike most is just what you mentioned about it not drying clear like the old glue. I plan to switch glues after the current bottle is done.

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Once in a while you get shown the light in the strangest of places if you look at it right - Robert Hunter

I have been using the LMI glue but I'm switching to carpenters glue from Lee Valley on the advice of a luthier friend much more accomplished than myself. Dries to a tan color and has gap filling qualities. The squeeze out of LMI glue is very hard to get rid of if allowed to dry. The LV glue is not.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Similar experience here too. Not drying clear doesn't bother me so much but the squeeze out dries real fast and gets gummy making it hard to clean up. I do like the short clamp time though. I'll probably just go back to good old Titebond next time round.

Yes, gummy is the word for the squeeze out. It's weird because I had the "opportunity" to take apart a joint glued with yellow glue and the glue in the joint was just as hard as expected. Squeeze out with the old glue dried solid, not gummy, and came off easily.

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Once in a while you get shown the light in the strangest of places if you look at it right - Robert Hunter

Thanks for the replies. Gummy is just the right word. I really don't like anything about the new stuff. Looks like it'll be Titebond for me. What's your favorite Titebond? I've heard good things about Titebond II.

Chris-

If you liked the original LMI White glue, try Titebond Translucent Glue. It will make you wonder if that was what LMI was bottling. It dries clear and is easy to work with.
I buy twin packs from Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss ... %2C+2+Pack

Mike Franks
www.mjfranksguitars.com

+1 for Lee Valley. I've been using their glue for any dark woods for many years. Drys very hard and has great strength.
Using HG more and more though.

Elmers Carpenter glue /some time mixed with Fish glue for more open time

Mike

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Mike Collins

Thanks everyone, for the help.

Chris-

Threw out the LMI yellow glue today. It was no picnic cleaning out the GluBot, but I did get it done. Replaced the yellow glue with Titebond Translucent Wood Glue, which, so far, I like just fine. Thanks again for the help, everybody.

Chris-

I've been using Tightbond Extend after reading a discussion on the now defunct Professional Luthiers Forum. I think Howard Klepper recommended it. It seems to dry hard like the old LMI white. I like it.

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It's not what you don't know that hurts you, it's what you do know that's wrong.

Here's an old thread that should be helpful.

Hugh Evans who used to work at Titebond commented.

viewtopic.php?f=10101&t=31065&hilit=titebond

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I'm not a luthier.
I'm just a guy who builds guitars in his basement.
It's better than playing golf.

I just received a reply from Franklin to my question of which of the Titebonds is best for creep resistance and hardness:

"Titebond Extend is our best product for creep resistance."

We are using 192g and 315g hot hide, plus a limited amount of fish for binding. We use some Titebond for jigs and fixtures where strength or creep behavior is not an issue, and Extend or Original gets the nod there.

FWIW: Because the boss starts us out on hot hide glue before he allows us to use other adhesives, by the time we pick up from other builders or forum posts that hide is supposed to be hard to use, we are already quite comfortable with it for most operations.

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For the times they are a changin'

- Bob Dylan

I guess it's all a matter of what you are used to. I'm used to going down to the local hardware store and buying a bottle of Titebond and then building guitars with it

Being there just the other day though, I didn't see any Titebond Extend or any of their other products except for Titebond II and III.

I guess I thought that extend was just a dilute version of original but that can't be the case if it's more creep resistant.

I remember that thread. I use Original only. Except when I am building purfling stuff that has to go through the bender.... Tite Bond III for that. Works great.

We like Titebond Extend too for better creep resistance and longer open time when working blind inside a box doing something that can barely be reached.

My only complaint about the stuff is having to wear a hat and sun glass when taking a bottle of it to the register.....

I'm used to explaining to folks that the glue used to build their instrument turns to chewing gum when it gets warm and fixing thier guitar is going to be very expensive.


I was told by Franklin years ago Extend is Original with "wood Cellulose" in it. That's the stuff that settles on the bottom of the bottle that should be mixed in before use. The Cellulose slows the release of moisture to give more open time. I don't understand why that would give it such a higher heat resistance though.



At least they don't keep it behind the counter and force you ask for it by name.

We use HHG 315g for everything that doesn't require the open time. Just about everything else is Tightbond II or III (depending on the color of the wood), and finally Epoxy for carbon fiber rods, fretboards and inlay. Of these, the biggest challenge is doing bindings and perflings at the same time with the TB II. It tacks up before I'd like, but I manage.

Never use LMI Instrument glue for a saw dust fill for a binding gap. It is made to fluoresce. Handy to find finger prints. I was watching one of my guitars being played on a stage where they were using some black lights ... Oh dear!

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http://www.Harvestmoonguitars.com

That's interesting. I almost always hear luthiers say to stay away from TB2 or 3. What do you use it for and what is your reasons?

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Another tread dug up by a spammer but oh well....

I have started using 192g hide glue with added salt for just about everything now. The formula I use requires heating up but it makes the open work time significantly longer. I make up a small batch, about 3oz probably, and put in a glue bottle with stainless steel nuts in it so that it sinks to the bottom of the water bath. Works like a charm.

Hey John now that is funny! If CA did that I would be seriously embarressed Dave